OBD-II trouble code
P0016: Crankshaft Position — Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1, Sensor A)
The relationship between the crankshaft and intake camshaft on Bank 1 is outside the expected window. Often a stretched timing chain — known issue on Hyundai/Kia 2.4L Theta II, BMW N20/N26, Audi 2.0T, and other timing-chain engines. Don't ignore it.
Quick facts
- System
- Powertrain
- Category
- Variable Valve Timing
- Severity
- High severity
- Drivable
- Usually safe to drive short-term
- Repair cost range
- $200 – $3,000
- DIY difficulty
- Shop recommended
What does P0016 mean?
The engine control module (ECM) monitors crankshaft position and camshaft position with separate sensors and compares the two signals to confirm that the timing components are in correct mechanical relationship. The crankshaft turns in synchrony with the pistons; the camshafts turn in synchrony with the valves. The two are connected by a timing belt or timing chain, and when the connection is correct, the crank and cam sensor signals appear at expected positions relative to each other.
P0016 is set when the correlation between the crankshaft and the Bank 1 intake camshaft (Sensor A) is outside the window the ECM allows. The cam is too far ahead or behind where the crank position says it should be. This is more serious than P0011 — P0011 indicates the VVT actuator commanded the cam to a position and the cam went too far. P0016 means the underlying mechanical timing relationship is wrong, regardless of where VVT commanded the cam.
The most common cause on modern engines is a stretched timing chain. Known platforms with widespread timing chain issues include Hyundai/Kia 2.4L Theta II (subject of class-action settlements), BMW N20 and N26, Audi/VW 2.0T (TSI), and certain Ford EcoBoost engines. Other causes include a jumped timing chain or belt, a failed VVT actuator stuck in an extreme position, or a failed crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. P0016 is drivable in the short term but can lead to piston-to-valve contact if the chain skips further — get it diagnosed immediately.
Common causes
- Stretched timing chain (very common on certain platforms — Hyundai/Kia Theta II, BMW N20/N26, Audi/VW 2.0T TSI, Ford EcoBoost)
- Jumped timing chain or timing belt
- Failed intake VVT actuator stuck in an extreme position
- Failed crankshaft position sensor
- Failed Bank 1 intake camshaft position sensor
- Damaged tone ring on the crankshaft or camshaft
- Severely dirty or low engine oil causing VVT failure
- Worn timing chain tensioner or guide
Symptoms
- Check engine light is on
- Rough idle and engine running unevenly
- Hard starting or no-start in severe cases
- Reduced power and poor throttle response
- Possible rattle or chain noise at startup (timing chain stretch)
- Possible misfire codes (P0300-series) alongside P0016
- Engine may stall or hesitate
Diagnostic steps
- 1.Pull all stored codes. P0016 alongside misfire codes or other VVT codes paints a fuller picture.
- 2.Check engine oil level and condition immediately. Many timing chain problems start as low or dirty oil.
- 3.Use a scan tool to monitor crankshaft and Bank 1 intake camshaft positions during cranking and at idle.
- 4.Listen for timing chain rattle, especially at cold start before oil pressure builds. Audible rattle plus P0016 strongly suggests a stretched chain.
- 5.Inspect the timing chain through the oil fill cap or with an inspection camera if access allows.
- 6.On platforms with known timing chain issues, plan on timing chain replacement once P0016 is confirmed.
- 7.If the timing chain checks out mechanically, test the VVT actuator and cam/crank sensors.
Repair cost
$200 – $3,000
Cam or crank position sensor replacement is $150 to $400. VVT solenoid is $200 to $700. Timing chain replacement is the most expensive outcome at $1,000 to $3,000 depending on the engine; some BMW and Audi platforms exceed $3,000. On Hyundai/Kia Theta II engines, the timing chain failure is often a symptom of broader engine wear and full engine replacement may be needed (check the class-action settlement coverage).
Estimate your repair
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DIY vs shop
Leave this one to a qualified shop. It typically involves emissions-critical components, refrigerant handling, or other work that requires manufacturer-grade tooling, training, or certification. DIY attempts often produce a more expensive problem than the original code.