OBD-II trouble code
P0035: Turbocharger/Supercharger Bypass Valve Control Circuit High
The bypass valve control circuit read higher than the module expected. Power is usually unaffected, which is exactly why this code gets ignored — the case for fixing it is not driveability but the turbocharger's thrust bearing, which is being loaded backwards every time you lift off.
Quick facts
- System
- Powertrain
- Category
- Fuel & Air
- Severity
- Medium severity
- Drivable
- Usually safe to drive short-term
- Repair cost range
- $60 – $700
- DIY difficulty
- Intermediate DIY
What does P0035 mean?
On a ground-switched solenoid, high is the resting state. The coil is fed battery voltage continuously and the module completes the circuit to ground when it wants the valve to act, so the control wire sits near battery voltage until it is commanded and then drops. P0035 is stored when the module commands the valve and the wire does not drop — the voltage stays high when it should have gone low.
The counter-intuitive part, and the thing worth internalising about this code, is that an open circuit reads high. There is no current path, so the wire floats up to whatever the supply side is holding it at, and the module sees the same thing it would see from a short to a voltage source. That is why P0035 and a genuine short to power come off the same measurement and are separated only by where the reading is taken. A broken wire, a retracted terminal, a coil that has burned open and a wire touching a live feed all produce this one code. The distinguishing test is a single unplugged measurement: with the connector off, a control wire that reads battery voltage is being fed from somewhere it should not be, and a wire that reads nothing is open.
Heat and vibration are the differentiating physical causes here, more so than for the low-side version of this fault. An open circuit is a mechanical separation — a cracked solder joint, a terminal that has lost its spring tension, a strand-by-strand break inside insulation that still looks perfect. Those are fatigue failures, and the bypass valve harness lives in the worst place in the car for fatigue: bolted to or near a component that runs at exhaust temperature, on an engine that moves on its mounts, in a bay that goes from ambient to several hundred degrees and back several times a day. A connector that has been heat-cycled for a hundred thousand miles is a plausible suspect on its own merits.
What this fault does to the engine is the opposite of the low-side version. A circuit that cannot be pulled low is a valve that never opens, so boost is made and held normally and the car pulls exactly as it should. Nothing is lost on the way up. What is lost is the release on the way down, and on a turbocharged engine that is a real mechanical event: the compressor is still spinning hard, the throttle has shut in front of it, and with no bypass path the pressurised air stalls the compressor wheel and reverses through it. You hear it as a chatter or flutter on every lift and every upshift. Each of those events pushes the shaft against the thrust bearing in the direction it is least able to take load, and thrust bearings are the part of a turbocharger that fails from exactly this. That is the case for fixing this code — not what it costs you today, but what repeated surge does to a component that costs an order of magnitude more.
On a supercharged engine with a positive-displacement blower the same electrical fault is far less consequential. A bypass that will not open means the blower is compressing air at light load that the throttle then discards, which shows up as fuel consumption and heat rather than as damage.
Common causes
- Open circuit in the control wire between the module and the valve
- Bypass valve or switching solenoid coil that has burned open
- Terminal that has lost spring tension and backed out of the connector body
- Cracked solder joint or fatigued crimp from repeated heat cycling near the turbocharger
- Short to battery voltage on the control wire
- Corrosion inside the connector creating a high-resistance joint that behaves as an open
- Loss of the supply feed to the coil, including a blown fuse
- Wire broken inside intact-looking insulation from engine movement and vibration
- Module driver failed open, which is uncommon and diagnosed last
Symptoms
- Chatter, flutter, or a rapid stuttering noise from the engine bay on throttle lift and upshifts
- Check engine light with completely normal power delivery
- Noise that is loudest during quick gearshifts and after sustained boost
- No change in fuel economy or idle quality in most cases
- Slightly harsher or slower throttle transitions on some platforms
- Reduced fuel economy on a supercharged engine rather than any noise
- Boost control adaptation faults appearing alongside over time
Diagnostic steps
- 1.Unplug the valve or solenoid and measure the control wire. Battery voltage present with the load disconnected indicates a short to power; no reading at all indicates an open.
- 2.Measure the coil resistance directly at the valve terminals. An infinite or very high reading confirms the element has burned open and the valve or solenoid is the part at fault.
- 3.Confirm the supply side. A missing feed to the coil produces the same high reading on the control wire as a broken control wire, and a fuse check rules it out in a minute.
- 4.Do a loaded voltage-drop test rather than a static resistance check where possible, because a high-resistance joint from corrosion or fatigue can measure acceptably at rest and open up under current.
- 5.Inspect the connector for retracted terminals, discoloured plastic, and green corrosion. Pull gently on each wire at the back of the plug to find a terminal that has lost tension.
- 6.Flex the harness along its length while watching the circuit live. A break inside intact insulation shows up as a reading that jumps when the loom is moved.
- 7.Listen for the noise. Chatter on lift with normal power under load is consistent with a valve that never opens, and is useful confirmation before any part is ordered.
- 8.Check the harness where it runs closest to the turbocharger housing, exhaust manifold, or downpipe for heat damage and embrittled insulation.
- 9.On a vacuum-actuated system, confirm the mechanical valve is not also at fault before returning the car, since an electrical repair on the solenoid will not fix a torn diaphragm.
Repair cost
$60 – $700
Repairing an open wire or replacing a failed connector is $80 to $280 depending on access, and it is the more common outcome on higher-mileage vehicles because this is a fatigue failure. A vacuum switching solenoid is $60 to $180 fitted; a directly driven electric bypass valve is $120 to $420 fitted. The upper end of the range reflects applications where the intake or charge piping has to come off to reach the valve at all. The economic argument for not deferring this one is indirect: repeated compressor surge loads the turbocharger's thrust bearing in its weakest direction, and a turbocharger is $1,200 to $3,000 fitted.
Estimate your repair
Run the numbers for your vehicle
Open the Repair Cost Estimator with turbocharger bypass / diverter valve replacement preselected. Adjust labor rate and vehicle category to fit your situation.
DIY vs shop
This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.