OBD-II trouble code
P0038: HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
The engine computer detected too much voltage on the heater control circuit for the Bank 1 downstream oxygen sensor — usually a short to power or a failed heater. The car runs normally, but the catalyst monitor won't run and it will fail an emissions test.
Quick facts
- System
- Powertrain
- Category
- Oxygen Sensor
- Severity
- Low severity
- Drivable
- Usually safe to drive short-term
- Repair cost range
- $0 – $400
- DIY difficulty
- Intermediate DIY
What does P0038 mean?
Sensor 2 on Bank 1 is the downstream oxygen sensor, located after the catalytic converter. It exists mainly to monitor how well the catalyst is working by comparing exhaust oxygen levels before and after the converter. Like every modern oxygen sensor, it has a built-in electric heater that brings it up to operating temperature (around 600°F to 800°F) quickly so it can begin reporting accurate readings soon after start-up.
The engine control module (ECM) controls that heater and monitors the circuit's voltage and current. P0038 sets when the ECM commands the downstream heater on but reads a HIGH value on the control circuit — usually higher voltage than expected, pointing to a short to voltage, an open in the switched leg that leaves the circuit floating high, or a heater drawing incorrectly. It is the high-side counterpart to P0037 (downstream heater circuit low) and the downstream equivalent of P0032.
Because the downstream sensor is used for catalyst monitoring rather than active fuel control, P0038 is a lower-severity code — the engine's fueling doesn't rely on it. The practical results are that the catalyst-efficiency monitor may not complete and the vehicle will fail an OBD-II emissions inspection. The heater is integrated into the sensor, so a truly failed heater means sensor replacement, but wiring and connector faults (especially a short to a nearby powered wire) are common and should be ruled out first.
Common causes
- Short to voltage (battery or another powered circuit) in the heater wiring
- Failed heater element inside the Bank 1 downstream oxygen sensor
- Corroded, loose, or damaged sensor connector
- Open or high-resistance connection in the ground-side heater wiring
- Chafed harness rubbing against a powered wire near the exhaust or underbody
- Failed heater driver inside the ECM (rare)
Symptoms
- Check engine light is on
- Catalyst-efficiency monitor may not complete (readiness not set)
- Failed emissions inspection
- Rarely any noticeable driveability symptoms
- Companion codes such as P0032, P0037, or P0141 on some vehicles
Diagnostic steps
- 1.Scan for all stored codes. Multiple heater codes at once point to a shared power feed, ground, or fuse rather than one sensor.
- 2.Inspect the downstream sensor connector and harness for chafing that could short the heater wire to a powered circuit.
- 3.With the connector unplugged and the key on, check for unexpected voltage on the heater control (switched) pin — voltage that shouldn't be present indicates a short to power.
- 4.Measure the heater element resistance across the two heater pins with the sensor unplugged. Roughly 2 to 20 ohms is typical depending on manufacturer; an open reading confirms an internal heater failure.
- 5.Verify the ground side of the heater circuit is intact; a poor ground can also push the monitored voltage high.
- 6.If the wiring, ground, and connector are good and the heater resistance is out of spec, replace the Bank 1 downstream oxygen sensor.
Repair cost
$0 – $400
A simple ground repair or blown fuse is a few dollars to $50. Repairing a shorted or chafed harness typically runs $50 to $200. Replacing the downstream oxygen sensor is usually $150 to $400 parts and labor, more if the sensor is rusted in. The heater is integral to the sensor, so a failed heater element requires full sensor replacement.
Estimate your repair
Run the numbers for your vehicle
Open the Repair Cost Estimator with oxygen sensor replacement preselected. Adjust labor rate and vehicle category to fit your situation.
Related repairs
DIY vs shop
This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.