OBD-II trouble code
P0113: Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
The intake air temperature (IAT) sensor signal is reading higher than the PCM's normal operating range, usually pointing to an open circuit, a failed sensor, or a wiring problem.
Quick facts
- System
- Powertrain
- Category
- Sensors / Air Intake
- Severity
- Low severity
- Drivable
- Usually safe to drive short-term
- Repair cost range
- $80 – $400
- DIY difficulty
- Beginner DIY
What does P0113 mean?
P0113 means your powertrain control module is seeing voltage from the intake air temperature sensor that is above the expected range. IAT sensors are simple thermistors — their resistance drops as the air gets warmer and rises as it gets colder. When the PCM sees an unusually high voltage on the signal wire, it usually translates to a reading of extremely cold air (sometimes below the lowest temperature the sensor can physically measure), which doesn't match what the coolant temperature sensor or the rest of the engine is telling it.
Because the air-temperature reading factors into fuel trim, ignition timing, and idle strategy, the PCM falls back to a default value once it decides the IAT signal isn't trustworthy. That keeps the engine running, but it usually shows up as slightly worse fuel economy, a hesitant cold start, or an overly rich tip-in until the issue is corrected.
P0113 is almost always an electrical or sensor problem rather than something mechanical — a broken connector, corroded pin, chafed wire, or a sensor element that has finally given up. On engines where the IAT is integrated into the mass airflow housing, this code can also point to a failing MAF assembly that needs to be replaced as a single unit.
Common causes
- Failed IAT sensor (open circuit inside the thermistor)
- Corroded or pushed-back pin in the IAT connector
- Broken or chafed signal wire between sensor and PCM
- Damaged MAF/IAT combo unit on engines where the two share a housing
- Connector unplugged after recent intake or air-filter work
- Water intrusion in the connector after engine bay washing
- Aftermarket cold-air intake with a poorly fitted sensor port
- Rodent damage to the harness near the air box
Symptoms
- Check engine light on with P0113 stored
- Slightly hard cold starts or extended cranking
- Slight loss of fuel economy
- Hesitation or stumble during the first minute of driving
- Black tailpipe smoke during cold acceleration on some engines
- Smooth idle once warm — most drivers don't notice anything else
Diagnostic steps
- 1.Pull live data and watch the IAT reading at key-on. A value pinned at -40°F / -40°C is the classic open-circuit signature.
- 2.Unplug the IAT connector and inspect for green corrosion, bent pins, or oil/water in the cavity.
- 3.With the connector unplugged, jumper the two pins and recheck live data — if the value swings to roughly 300°F, the harness and PCM are working and the sensor itself is bad.
- 4.If the reading stays pinned cold with the jumper in place, back-probe the connector at the PCM end and check continuity on both wires.
- 5.On MAF/IAT combo housings, swap a known-good MAF if cleaning the connector doesn't resolve the code.
Repair cost
$80 – $400
Standalone IAT sensors are usually $20-$60 in parts and 0.3 hours of labor, so a quick shop visit lands around $80-$150. The range climbs when the IAT is built into a mass airflow housing — those assemblies run $150-$350 and the labor is similar, putting the all-in around $250-$400.
Estimate your repair
Run the numbers for your vehicle
Open the Repair Cost Estimator with mass airflow / iat housing replacement preselected. Adjust labor rate and vehicle category to fit your situation.
DIY vs shop
This is a beginner-friendly repair. Common hand tools, a free afternoon, and a willingness to follow a procedure are usually enough. The risk of causing a bigger problem is low if you read up on your specific vehicle first.