OBD-II trouble code
P0407: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor 'B' Circuit Low
The EGR 'B' feedback signal is reading too low. On the platforms where this code matters most, Sensor B is a dedicated EGR gas temperature sensor rather than a valve position channel — which is why the primary fix here is the temperature sensor, not the valve.
Quick facts
- System
- Powertrain
- Category
- Emissions / Other
- Severity
- Medium severity
- Drivable
- Usually safe to drive short-term
- Repair cost range
- $50 – $600
- DIY difficulty
- Intermediate DIY
What does P0407 mean?
P0407 is the low-input member of the EGR 'Sensor B' pair, and understanding it starts with knowing what 'Sensor B' actually is on your engine. Where 'Sensor A' (P0405/P0406) is almost always the EGR valve's position-feedback potentiometer, 'Sensor B' is the second EGR feedback channel — and on a large share of the platforms that throw this code, that second channel is a dedicated EGR gas temperature sensor. This sensor sits in the EGR flow path and measures the temperature of the recirculated exhaust, which the PCM uses to confirm that the EGR system is actually flowing hot exhaust gas when it commands the valve open. That's a different part from the valve itself, which is exactly why this page leads with the temperature sensor as the primary repair.
P0407 sets when the Sensor B signal voltage falls below the PCM's minimum threshold. For an EGR temperature sensor — which is a thermistor, like a coolant or intake-air sensor — low voltage typically reads as very high temperature, and the fault usually means the signal has shorted to ground, the sensor has failed internally, or the connector has corroded in the hot environment near the EGR passage. Because EGR temperature sensors live in one of the harshest thermal spots on the engine, heat-related connector and sensor failures are common.
The practical impact is mild. Losing the EGR temperature signal doesn't stop the engine — the PCM falls back to a default strategy — but it does take the EGR system out of proper closed-loop monitoring, which costs a little fuel economy and will fail an emissions inspection. The reason to fix it promptly is that EGR temperature feedback is part of how the PCM verifies the system is working at all, and an unmonitored EGR system can mask a real flow problem that builds up later.
If your platform instead uses Sensor B as a second position channel rather than a temperature sensor, the repair shifts toward the EGR valve — which is why the valve replacement is offered as the secondary path. Confirm which architecture you have before ordering parts.
Common causes
- Failed EGR gas temperature sensor (thermistor shorted internally)
- Signal wire shorted to ground on the Sensor B circuit
- Corroded connector in the hot zone near the EGR passage
- Open or high-resistance ground affecting the temperature-sensor reading
- On position-channel platforms, a failed second position-feedback element in the EGR valve
- Harness chafe damage near the exhaust manifold or EGR tube
- Connector left unseated after EGR or exhaust service
- Aftermarket sensor of incorrect resistance specification
Symptoms
- Check engine light on with P0407 stored
- Mild reduction in fuel economy
- Engine usually runs normally — EGR defaults to a safe strategy when feedback is lost
- Possible light hesitation on platforms where EGR ties to throttle control
- Failed emissions inspection
- No temperature-related driveability change the driver would notice directly
Diagnostic steps
- 1.Determine whether Sensor B on your engine is an EGR temperature sensor or a second valve position channel — this decides whether you're chasing a standalone sensor or the valve.
- 2.Inspect the Sensor B connector for heat-related corrosion, melted insulation, or pushed-back pins — the EGR zone runs hot and connectors suffer.
- 3.Pull all codes. P0407 alone is the Sensor B circuit case; P0407 with P0408 points at shared wiring; P0407 with valve codes broadens it.
- 4.For a temperature-sensor design, measure resistance across the sensor terminals and compare to the temperature/resistance spec — a near-zero reading confirms an internal short.
- 5.Back-probe the signal wire while wiggling the harness to expose a short-to-ground along the run near the manifold.
- 6.Check the sensor ground for continuity and low resistance.
- 7.If the sensor and wiring test good on a position-channel platform, the fault is in the EGR valve's feedback element — replace the valve and confirm feedback tracks after.
Repair cost
$50 – $600
If Sensor B is a standalone EGR temperature sensor, the part runs $25-130 and labor is 0.5-2.0 hours depending on how buried the sensor is in the EGR tubing — roughly $90-420 installed. A connector or wiring repair can be cheaper, $50-250. If your platform uses Sensor B as a second valve position channel and the valve's internal feedback has failed, you're into EGR valve replacement at $300-600+. Confirming the architecture first is what keeps a cheap sensor job from being mistaken for a valve replacement.
Estimate your repair
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DIY vs shop
This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.