OBD-II trouble code
P0507: Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
The engine is idling faster than the PCM's target RPM and the idle control strategy can't bring it back down — most often a vacuum leak letting extra air past the throttle plate.
Quick facts
- System
- Powertrain
- Category
- Idle Control
- Severity
- Medium severity
- Drivable
- Usually safe to drive short-term
- Repair cost range
- $100 – $700
- DIY difficulty
- Intermediate DIY
What does P0507 mean?
P0507 means the powertrain control module has commanded idle as low as the strategy allows — either fully closing the throttle on a drive-by-wire engine or fully seating the idle air control valve on an older engine — and the engine is still spinning faster than target. The PCM monitors actual idle RPM against the target value, and when actual stays high despite full corrective effort, the code sets.
The overwhelming cause is unmetered air entering the engine somewhere downstream of the mass airflow sensor. That extra air dilutes the fuel mixture, but more importantly it gives the engine combustion air the PCM can't take away. A cracked intake boot, a leaking PCV hose, a torn brake booster hose, a stuck-open EVAP purge solenoid, or a failing intake manifold gasket are all common P0507 sources. On vehicles with idle air control valves, a valve that's stuck open or a base idle setting that has drifted out of spec produces the same complaint.
Drivers usually notice an idle that's parked at 1,000-1,400 RPM long after the engine is warm, idle that doesn't drop when shifting from park into drive, and sometimes a hissing sound from the engine bay. It's not a code that strands you, but it does mean fuel economy will suffer, the engine may creep forward at stops, and on automatic transmissions the elevated idle puts extra wear on the brakes that are holding you still at every light.
Common causes
- Vacuum leak at the intake manifold, throttle body gasket, or intake boot
- Cracked or disconnected PCV hose
- Torn brake booster supply hose
- Stuck-open EVAP purge solenoid pulling extra air through the canister
- Failing intake manifold gasket (very common on certain GM 3.6L and Chrysler 3.5L engines)
- Sticking-open idle air control valve
- Throttle plate not closing fully due to carbon buildup or a sticking cable
- Drive-by-wire throttle that needs a relearn after battery disconnect or cleaning
- Cracked aftermarket intake manifold spacer or air filter housing
Symptoms
- Check engine light on with P0507 stored
- Idle stuck high — typically 1,000-1,400 RPM even when fully warm
- Idle doesn't drop when shifting from park into drive
- Audible hissing sound under the hood
- Car tries to creep forward at stops on automatic transmissions
- Slight fuel economy loss
- Long-term fuel trim showing strongly positive values
Diagnostic steps
- 1.Read live data and compare commanded idle to actual idle. If actual is consistently 200+ RPM above commanded, P0507 conditions are present.
- 2.Check long-term fuel trim at idle. A value of +10% or higher strongly points to a vacuum leak rather than a throttle or IAC problem.
- 3.Smoke-test the intake from the air filter through the manifold. A smoke machine reveals leaks that are hard to see with the engine running.
- 4.Pinch off the brake booster hose temporarily. If idle drops to target, the booster or its check valve is leaking.
- 5.Inspect the PCV system — a popped-off hose or a stuck PCV valve is a classic P0507 cause.
- 6.Try a throttle body cleaning followed by an idle relearn before condemning the throttle body itself.
Repair cost
$100 – $700
Most P0507 fixes are vacuum-related and land in the $100-$400 range — a hose, a gasket, or a $50 PCV valve plus an hour of labor. Intake manifold gasket replacement is the upper end at $400-$700 because of the teardown required. Stuck EVAP purge valves are usually $150-$250. Throttle body replacement with idle relearn runs $400-$800.
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Related repairs
DIY vs shop
This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.