OBD-II trouble code
P2067: Fuel Level Sensor "B" Circuit Low
An empty tank and a shorted wire produce nearly the same reading, so the module can only call this a fault when the value falls below what the float is physically able to produce. That threshold is also the measurement that separates a $30 connector repair from dropping a fuel tank.
Quick facts
- System
- Powertrain
- Category
- Fuel System
- Severity
- Low severity
- Drivable
- Usually safe to drive short-term
- Repair cost range
- $90 – $950
- DIY difficulty
- Intermediate DIY
Browse every code in P2000–P20E8, or start from the full code library.
What does P2067 mean?
P2067 is stored when the secondary fuel level signal sits below the module's acceptable minimum. The complication built into that sentence is that a low signal is also what a nearly empty compartment legitimately produces, so the module cannot simply react to a small number. It has to distinguish a true reading at the bottom of the range from a value the float cannot generate at all.
That is possible because a sending unit has mechanical stops. The float arm cannot swing past the bottom of the tank, so even with the compartment dry, the wiper sits at a defined point on the track and the circuit returns a specific, small, non-zero value. Anything below that floor is not a level the vehicle could be at. The circuit is being pulled down by something other than the float — a signal wire touching ground, a shorted track, a failed internal connection — and that is what this code reports.
That distinction is also the most useful measurement available to whoever is diagnosing it. Read the raw sender voltage rather than the calculated percentage. A dead zero, or a reading within a few hundredths of ground, is a short: the wiper is out of the picture entirely. A small but clearly non-zero value that matches the sender's empty specification is a float sitting at its stop, which means either the compartment really is empty or the float has stopped riding on the surface. Those two findings send you to completely different places, and they are separated by one measurement taken before anything is removed.
There is a consequence on this member that the rest of the family does not carry, and it has nothing to do with the gauge. On a vehicle with two fuel compartments, the module often uses the level readings when deciding how to run the transfer that keeps the main pump supplied. Handed a permanently low reading from the secondary sender, the strategy can behave as though that side is already empty — so transfer is not called for when it should be, or, on some designs, the jet pump is run continuously when there is nothing there to move. The practical outcome is a vehicle that stalls or stumbles on a slope or a hard corner while the gauge shows fuel remaining. That is a driveability complaint with no obvious connection to a level sensor, and it is the reason this code is worth fixing even on a vehicle whose owner has decided to live with an inaccurate gauge.
The cause population leans toward wiring more than the performance member does, and toward one location in particular. The secondary sender's connector sits on top of a tank or lobe, usually reached through a panel under the rear seat or the cargo floor. On many platforms that area is sealed only by a rubber grommet and a foam pad, and on a vehicle used on salted roads or one that has had a leaking rear screen or door seal, moisture reaches the connector from above rather than from the road. A signal pin corroded to a grounded body panel through that damp path is one of the most common and least expensive causes here, and it is visible as soon as the panel comes up.
Common causes
- Signal wire shorted to ground between the module and the secondary sender
- Corrosion bridging the signal pin to the body at a damp tank-top connector
- Secondary sending unit resistance track shorted or worn through to its substrate
- Float saturated with fuel or detached from its arm, leaving the wiper at the empty stop
- Float arm bent or fouling a baffle so the float cannot rise
- Chafed harness insulation where the loom crosses between lobes or tanks
- Pinched wire under a tank strap, access panel or seat mounting after previous work
- Failed internal connection in the sending unit assembly
- Aftermarket sender with a resistance range whose empty value falls below the module's floor
- Water leaking into the cabin from a rear screen, door seal or sunroof drain reaching the access panel
Symptoms
- Fuel gauge reading empty or lower than the vehicle's actual fuel
- Low fuel warning light permanently on
- Distance-to-empty showing zero or unavailable
- Check engine light on with normal engine performance
- Stall or stumble on a hill or in a hard corner with fuel still showing
- Jet pump or transfer audible more often than normal, or not at all
- Gauge reading far less than the tank actually accepts at a fill
- EVAP monitor not completing because the system cannot confirm a valid fuel level
- Fault appearing after rain, a car wash, or a known water leak into the cabin
- Fault appearing immediately after fuel pump, tank or rear seat work
Diagnostic steps
- 1.Read the raw secondary sender voltage rather than the calculated fuel percentage. A value at or within a whisker of ground is a short; a small non-zero value matching the empty specification is a float sitting at its stop, and the two lead in opposite directions.
- 2.If the reading is at the empty specification rather than at zero, add a known quantity of fuel to that compartment and watch whether the value moves. No movement with fuel added points at the float or its arm, not at the wiring.
- 3.Disconnect the sender. If the signal reading rises to the module's open-circuit value, the wiring is intact and the fault is inside the sending unit. If it stays low with the sender unplugged, the short is in the harness.
- 4.With both the sender and the module disconnected, measure the signal wire to ground. A low resistance confirms the short with both components removed from the result.
- 5.Lift the access panel over the secondary sender and inspect the connector for green corrosion, moisture and salt before removing anything. On many vehicles this is the single most likely cause and it is visible on sight.
- 6.Trace where any water came from. A damp tank-top connector on a vehicle with a rear screen, door seal or sunroof drain leak will corrode again if only the connector is cleaned.
- 7.Ask about driveability, not only about the gauge. Stalling on a slope with fuel showing suggests the transfer strategy is being misled by the low reading and makes the repair more urgent.
- 8.Check the harness run between lobes or tanks with the vehicle raised, and look specifically under tank straps and at panel edges where an earlier repair could have pinched the loom.
- 9.Once the sender is accessible, sweep its arm through full travel while watching resistance. A section reading near zero identifies a worn or shorted track directly.
- 10.Relieve fuel pressure, disconnect the battery before opening a tank access panel, and observe proper fuel-handling safety throughout.
Repair cost
$90 – $950
Diagnosis is $90 to $180. A corroded connector at the access panel is the cheapest genuine outcome and often lands between $80 and $200, which is why it is worth looking there before any measurement leads elsewhere. Repairing a shorted section of harness between lobes or tanks is $150 to $450, at the upper end when the tank has to be lowered to reach the damage. A replacement secondary sending unit is $60 to $350 in parts, with 0.7 to 1.5 hours of labour where an access panel exists and 2 to 3.5 hours where the tank must come down; where the manufacturer sells only a complete pump and sender module, parts rise to $250 to $700. If water entering the cabin caused the corrosion, budget separately for that leak, because a connector repaired under an ongoing leak will fail again.
Estimate your repair
Run the numbers for your vehicle
Open the Repair Cost Estimator with fuel level sensor / sending unit replacement preselected. Adjust labor rate and vehicle category to fit your situation.
DIY vs shop
This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.