What does the 'B' in P0023 mean?

On a dual-VVT engine, 'A' is the intake camshaft and 'B' is the exhaust camshaft. So P0023 is an electrical circuit fault on the bank-2 exhaust VVT solenoid specifically — not the intake side. Some single-VVT engines that only adjust one camshaft will reuse 'A' or 'B' designators based on which cam they actually have, but on modern dual-VVT engines the convention is consistent: B = exhaust.

Can I keep driving with P0023?

Yes, in the short term. The PCM falls back to a default exhaust-cam position, which gives you driveable but slightly less efficient operation — you'll notice it most in mid-RPM acceleration and at highway cruise. Don't ignore it for thousands of miles; if the underlying cause is low oil pressure or chain wear, those will get worse and pull in more expensive codes.

Should I replace both bank solenoids at the same time?

Usually not. If only P0023 is set, replace only the bank-2 exhaust solenoid. The intake-side and bank-1 solenoids fail at different rates depending on heat exposure and oil flow patterns, and swapping out parts that are working extends labor and replaces functioning hardware for no benefit. Exception: if your engine has a known VVT solenoid recall, replace all four to match the service campaign.

How much does P0023 cost to fix?

If it's just an oil change clearing a clogged solenoid screen, $80-150. A solenoid replacement on the bank-2 exhaust side typically runs $250-700 depending on access. Heat-damaged wiring repair is $200-500. Worst case — a damaged phaser requiring timing-cover-off work — runs $1,400-2,200, but that's uncommon for a circuit-only fault.

OBD-II trouble code

P0023: 'B' Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)

The PCM detected an electrical fault in the exhaust-camshaft VVT solenoid circuit on bank 2. 'B' designates the exhaust cam — the one that controls when the exhaust valves open relative to crankshaft position.

Quick facts

System: Powertrain
Category: Variable Valve Timing
Severity: Medium severity
Drivable: Usually safe to drive short-term
Repair cost range: $200 – $750
DIY difficulty: Intermediate DIY

What does P0023 mean?

P0023 is the bank-2 mirror of P0013, and the most important thing to understand first is what 'B' means. On dual-VVT engines (the common layout on modern V6s and V8s with variable timing on both cams), 'A' refers to the intake camshaft and 'B' refers to the exhaust camshaft. So P0023 is an electrical-circuit fault on the bank-2 exhaust VVT solenoid — not the intake side.

That distinction matters for diagnosis. On almost every dual-VVT engine, the intake and exhaust solenoids are physically separate parts mounted on different sides of the cylinder head, with different connectors and different harness routing. Pulling the wrong one wastes time and risks introducing a vacuum leak through a disturbed gasket. Before opening up tools, confirm which solenoid is the 'B' (exhaust) one on your specific engine — usually the one closer to the exhaust manifold side of the head, but verify against a service-manual diagram rather than guessing.

The failure modes for P0023 are nearly identical to the intake-side code (P0020): failed solenoid winding, damaged wiring, corroded connector, sludged oil clogging the filter screen, or in rare cases a PCM driver issue. Exhaust-side solenoids do see more heat exposure than intake-side ones because of their proximity to the exhaust manifold, so wiring damage from heat is a slightly more common cause here than on P0020.

Common causes

Failed bank-2 exhaust VVT solenoid (most common — open or shorted winding)
Heat-damaged wiring or connector near the exhaust manifold side of the head
Corroded or oil-fouled connector pins at the exhaust solenoid
Sludged oil clogging the solenoid filter screen — looks electrical to the PCM but is mechanical
Aftermarket exhaust work or headers that damaged the harness routing
Open or shorted PCM driver circuit for the bank-2 exhaust solenoid (rare)
Recent battery replacement or wiring service that left a connector partially seated
Severe low oil pressure preventing the actuator from responding at all

Symptoms

Check Engine Light on, often without an obvious driveability complaint
Slight loss of throttle response, especially in the mid-RPM range where exhaust cam adjustment has the biggest effect
Reduced fuel economy because the PCM falls back to a default exhaust-cam map
On some platforms, a minor change in idle smoothness or exhaust note
Stored freeze-frame showing the fault set at moderate load or under deceleration

Diagnostic steps

1.Verify which solenoid is 'B' (exhaust) on your specific engine using a service-manual diagram. Don't guess based on which is more accessible.
2.Pull freeze-frame data — note RPM, load, and coolant temp at the moment of fault. Faults under heavy heat soak suggest wiring damage; faults at idle suggest electrical or solenoid winding issues.
3.Disconnect the bank-2 exhaust VVT solenoid and measure resistance across the terminals. Compare against spec (typically 6-14 ohms). Out of range condemns the solenoid.
4.With the connector unplugged and the key on, backprobe the harness to confirm battery voltage on one pin. If voltage is missing, work upstream through the harness — heat damage near the exhaust manifold is the typical failure point.
5.Inspect the connector pins for corrosion, oil contamination, or backed-out pins. Even a marginally seated pin will set this code intermittently.
6.If the solenoid passes resistance and the harness has voltage, scope the PCM's command signal at idle. A dead or noisy signal points to a PCM driver issue (rare but real).
7.Clear the code, drive a full warm-up cycle plus a short freeway run, and recheck.

Repair cost

$200 – $750

Solenoid is typically $50-180; the rest is labor. Bank-2 exhaust access is often the worst combination — back of the engine, hot side — which can push labor above the bank-1 equivalent. Wiring repairs are highly variable: a single damaged pin is a 30-minute job, but heat-damaged harness sections can run $200-500 if a section needs to be re-loomed.

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DIY vs shop

This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.