OBD-II trouble code
P0058: HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
The engine computer commanded the heater in the Bank 2 downstream oxygen sensor to turn on, but measured too much voltage on the control circuit. Usually a short to power or an open ground. The car runs normally, but it will fail an emissions test.
Quick facts
- System
- Powertrain
- Category
- Oxygen Sensor
- Severity
- Low severity
- Drivable
- Usually safe to drive short-term
- Repair cost range
- $0 – $400
- DIY difficulty
- Intermediate DIY
What does P0058 mean?
Sensor 2 on Bank 2 is the downstream oxygen sensor, mounted after the catalytic converter on the side of the engine that does NOT contain cylinder number 1. It monitors catalyst efficiency by comparing the exhaust oxygen content before and after the converter, and it has a built-in electric heater that brings it up to operating temperature quickly after a cold start.
The engine control module (ECM) switches that heater circuit and monitors its voltage and current. P0058 sets when the ECM commands the heater on but measures a HIGH reading on the control circuit — typically excessive voltage, which points to a short to battery power, an open in the ground side, or high circuit resistance. It is the electrical opposite of P0057 (heater circuit low) on the same sensor, and the Bank 2 counterpart to P0038 (Bank 1, Sensor 2).
Because the downstream sensor is used mainly for catalyst monitoring rather than active fuel control, P0058 has a lower severity than the upstream heater codes — the engine's fuel management doesn't depend on it. The practical consequences are that the catalyst-efficiency monitor may not run and the vehicle will fail an OBD-II emissions inspection. As with all modern oxygen sensors, the heater is built into the sensor, so a genuinely failed heater element means replacing the sensor, but a short to power, an open ground, or chafed wiring should be ruled out first.
Common causes
- Short to battery voltage in the heater control wiring
- Open or high-resistance ground on the heater circuit
- Corroded, loose, or damaged sensor connector
- Chafed heater-circuit wiring contacting a power source, often near the hot exhaust or along the underbody
- Failed heater element inside the Bank 2 downstream oxygen sensor
- Failed heater driver inside the ECM (rare)
Symptoms
- Check engine light is on
- Catalyst-efficiency monitor may not complete (readiness not set)
- Failed emissions inspection
- Rarely any noticeable driveability symptoms
- Companion codes such as P0052, P0057, or P0161 on some vehicles
Diagnostic steps
- 1.Scan for all stored codes. Multiple heater codes together suggest a shared power, ground, or wiring fault rather than one failed sensor.
- 2.Inspect the Bank 2 downstream sensor connector and harness along the underbody and near the exhaust for melted insulation, chafing, or corrosion that could short the circuit to power.
- 3.With the sensor unplugged and the key on, check the heater control and ground circuits for the correct voltage. Battery voltage where you expect a switched ground points to a short to power.
- 4.Verify the ground side of the heater circuit is clean and complete — an open ground can drive the reading high.
- 5.Measure the heater element resistance across its two heater pins and compare to the manufacturer's specification.
- 6.If the wiring, connector, and ground all check out and the sensor heater is out of spec, replace the Bank 2 downstream oxygen sensor.
Repair cost
$0 – $400
A wiring or connector repair is often $50 to $200. Replacing the downstream oxygen sensor typically runs $150 to $400 in parts and labor, though a rusted-in sensor on an older vehicle can add labor. Because the heater is built into the sensor, a failed heater element means full sensor replacement. Tracing a short to power can add diagnostic labor.
Estimate your repair
Run the numbers for your vehicle
Open the Repair Cost Estimator with oxygen sensor replacement preselected. Adjust labor rate and vehicle category to fit your situation.
Related repairs
DIY vs shop
This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.