OBD-II trouble code
P0064: HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2, Sensor 3)
SAE J2012: HO2S heater control circuit high, bank 2 sensor 3. High is not automatically a short to power, and it is not automatically an open. A 2014 GM file calls the bank 2 sensor 2 high code voltage high during driver-on, a short to power. That file is not this sensor until the chart says so.
Quick facts
- System
- Powertrain
- Category
- Oxygen Sensor
- Severity
- Low severity
- Drivable
- Usually safe to drive short-term
- Repair cost range
- $300 – $580 (oxygen sensor replacement, parts and labor)
- DIY difficulty
- Intermediate DIY
Browse every code in P0001–P0099, or start from the full code library.
What does P0064 mean?
SAE J2012 APR2002 names P0064 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High, Bank 2 Sensor 3. P0062 is the general circuit code and P0063 is circuit low.
A 2014 GM summary, file 14OBDG12, describes P0058, bank 2 sensor 2, as voltage high during the driver-on state and calls that a short to power. Ignition is crank or run, voltage is above 11 V, and engine speed is above 400 rpm, 20 failures out of 25 samples. Those words belong to P0058. Use them for P0064 only when this sensor 3 chart repeats them.
On a low-side driver, an open winding, a broken control wire, or an unlatched connector can also leave the monitored line high, because nothing pulls it down. A short to power can hold the same line high while the driver tries to ground it. The two are separated by opening both ends. With the module and the sensor disconnected and the ignition on, voltage on the control wire means a short to power. With the ignition off, an open end to end means a broken wire. Unplugging only the sensor tells you whether the reading changes. No change means the sensor is not the cause. The diagram has to show a low-side driver before that open-versus-short story applies.
A fuse that blows is a short of the supply toward ground, not a short of the control wire to power. Do not read a blown heater fuse as proof of P0064's high result.
If the harness was trapped under a clamp, a shield, a hanger, or a tank strap during recent underbody work, inspect those fasteners. A pinch can open the wire or short it. Release the fastener to see the wire. Count sensors on the bank without cylinder 1 so you are on sensor 3.
Common causes
- A short to power on the bank 2 sensor 3 heater control wire, proved with both ends open and the ignition on
- An open control wire, an open heater, or an unlatched connector, where the diagram shows a low-side driver that expects the line to be pulled down
- The 2014 GM P0058 driver-on short-to-power test copied onto sensor 3
- A harness trapped under a clamp, shield, hanger, or strap that was disturbed
- A blown heater fuse treated as this high code, when a blown fuse is a supply shorted toward ground
- A miswired replacement sensor, confirmed against this connector's pinout
Symptoms
- Check engine light with P0064
- The reading unchanged with the sensor unplugged, which removes the sensor as the cause
- Voltage present on the control wire with both ends disconnected and the ignition on
- The fault appearing after exhaust, tank, or heat-shield work on this run
- A blown heater fuse, which is a different fault from a control wire shorted to power
- No sensor 3 on the pipe, which means the code and the calibration need confirming
Diagnostic steps
- 1.Count to sensor 3 on the bank without cylinder 1. Support the vehicle on stands or a lift. Wait until the exhaust is cool.
- 2.If underbody hardware was recently unbolted, inspect the harness at each clamp, hanger, strap, and shield that was moved. Release the fastener. A trapped wire is hidden while the clamp is tight.
- 3.Do not import the 2014 GM P0058 test unless this chart repeats it. Read whether high on this page is driver-on, driver-off, or a current test.
- 4.Unplug the sensor and see whether the circuit reading changes with the ignition in the state the chart uses. No change means the sensor is not the cause.
- 5.Check the connector latch and for a terminal backed out before you call the element open.
- 6.Ignition off, both ends disconnected: continuity of the control wire. Ignition on, both ends still open: any voltage on that wire is a short to power. Do not ohm the wire with the ignition on.
- 7.A blown heater fuse is tested as a short of the supply toward ground. It is not the proof of a control-wire short to power.
- 8.Measure heater resistance on the sensor side against a printed spec. No ohm band is stated here.
- 9.Repair the wire that failed. Replace the sensor when the element is open or shorted and the harness passed. Secure the harness off the clamp that trapped it.
- 10.Run the monitor under the published enable.
Repair cost
$300 – $580 (oxygen sensor replacement, parts and labor)
Header figure for P0064 is oxygen-sensor replacement only. RepairPal's 3 September 2026 average is $440–$523 (labor $93–$136, parts $347–$387). The near-me Silverado 1500 figure is $306–$407 and the CR-V figure is $501–$578, which round to $300–$580. A trapped harness is not in that pair. RepairPal check-engine diagnosis is $125–$183, separate from the sensor. Use stands or a lift. A torch on a seized bung requires a cool exhaust and no fuel vapor.
Estimate your repair
Run the numbers for your vehicle
Open the Repair Cost Estimator with oxygen sensor replacement preselected. Adjust labor rate and vehicle category to fit your situation.
DIY vs shop
This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.