How do I tell whether the solenoid or the wiring is shorted?

Unplug the solenoid, clear the code and see what the module logs next. Disconnecting removes the only path through the coil, so if the coil was the short the circuit is now open and the fault should change to the open or high code this chart names, which is P0077 only on the calibrations that use it that way. If the low code returns unchanged with nothing connected, the coil cannot be involved and the short is in the wiring between the connector and the module. It takes about a minute and it is the difference between a correct repair and a replaced part that changes nothing.

Where does the wiring usually short on this circuit?

Where the pigtail crosses the cylinder head or front cover. This solenoid bolts into a large, hot, grounded aluminium casting, and its harness has to run across that casting to reach it — so ground is never more than the thickness of the insulation away. Years of heat cycling harden the insulation and vibration works it against machined edges and fastener heads until the conductor touches metal. Look for a shiny worn patch on the underside of the loom, which means lifting the harness and rolling it over rather than glancing at the top surface.

I fixed the short but the output still reads dead. Did the repair fail?

Probably not. A hard short to ground pulls heavy current through the module's driver, and many modules protect themselves by latching that output off after an overcurrent event and refusing to retry it for the rest of the key cycle. Clear the codes, switch the ignition fully off, wait a moment and start again, then re-run the actuation test. A correct repair that is retested without a key cycle looks identical to no repair at all, and that trap has sent more than a few good solenoids back over the counter.

Will this damage the engine if I keep driving?

Not in the short term. When phasing control is lost the intake phaser generally parks at a default position and the engine runs with fixed valve timing, so you will feel reduced low-speed torque, a slightly rougher idle and higher fuel consumption rather than anything alarming. The reason to deal with it reasonably promptly is electrical rather than mechanical: a circuit shorted to ground is drawing current it should not, and repeatedly stressing a module driver is a good way to turn an inexpensive repair into an expensive one.

How much does P0076 cost to fix?

Variable valve timing control solenoid replacement is $170 – $2,080 (variable valve timing control solenoid replacement, parts and labor, from the 2023 Honda CR-V year line through the 2021–2022 Toyota Corolla year line). RepairPal's 3 September 2026 national average is $469–$594. The Honda CR-V model page is $238–$362, and the 2023 and 2025 CR-V year lines are $173–$212. The Toyota Corolla model page is $879–$952, and the 2021–2022 Corolla year lines are $1,937–$2,074. Wiring, a valve-cover gasket, and a phaser are outside that pair.

OBD-II trouble code

P0076: Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 1)

Voltage on the bank 1 intake valve control solenoid circuit is being held below where the module expects it. A shorted coil and a shorted wire look identical from the module's side — and one connector unplug tells them apart.

Medium severityPowertrainVariable Valve TimingDrivable short-term

Quick facts

System: Powertrain
Category: Variable Valve Timing
Severity: Medium severity
Drivable: Usually safe to drive short-term
Repair cost range: $170 – $2,080 (variable valve timing control solenoid replacement, parts and labor, from the 2023 Honda CR-V year line through the 2021–2022 Toyota Corolla year line)
DIY difficulty: Intermediate DIY

Browse every code in P0001–P0099, or start from the full code library.

What does P0076 mean?

P0076 means the module is measuring a voltage on the intake valve control solenoid circuit that is lower than it should be for the state it commanded. Something is holding the line down, either by design somewhere it should not be, or because a path to ground has appeared that was never meant to exist.

Understanding why that is so easy to misdiagnose requires one detail about how these solenoids are wired. Where the diagram shows a low-side driver, the solenoid receives battery voltage on one terminal and the module switches the other terminal to ground, often with a pulse-width signal. The module monitors the voltage on its own control terminal to check its work. When the driver is off, that terminal should sit up near battery voltage, pulled there through the solenoid coil. When the driver is on, it should be near zero. A low fault means the module saw near zero when it expected to see the line up, and the two things that produce that are a short to ground on the control wire and a solenoid coil that has shorted internally.

From the module's point of view those two are indistinguishable, which is why so many of these codes end in a replaced solenoid that did not fix anything. The discriminator is trivially simple and takes one minute: unplug the solenoid with the ignition on and see what the module logs. Removing the solenoid removes the only path through the coil, so if the coil was the short, the circuit is now open — the result should change to the open or high code this chart names. That is P0077 only when this calibration uses P0077 for the open. If instead the code stubbornly stays low with nothing plugged into the connector, the coil cannot possibly be responsible and the short is in the wiring between the connector and the module. That single test replaces an afternoon of speculation and it should be the first thing done on this code, before any resistance measurement and long before any parts are ordered.

When the fault does turn out to be in the wiring, the location is fairly predictable and it comes from where this solenoid has to live. An intake valve control solenoid bolts directly into or onto the cylinder head or front cover — a large, hot, grounded aluminium casting — and its harness pigtail runs across that casting for the last stretch of its journey. Ground is therefore never more than a few millimetres of insulation away. Heat cycling hardens the insulation over years, vibration works the harness against casting edges and fastener heads, and eventually the conductor touches metal. The characteristic finding is a shiny worn patch on the underside of the loom where it has been resting against a machined edge, invisible until the harness is lifted and rolled over.

One further caution specific to the low condition: a hard short to ground draws heavy current through the module's driver. Many modules protect themselves by shutting the affected output down after an overcurrent event and will not retry it within the same key cycle. After repairing a short, clear the codes and cycle the ignition off and on before retesting, otherwise the output will still read as dead and a correct repair will look like a failed one.

Common causes

Control wire shorted to ground where the harness crosses the cylinder head or front cover casting
Intake valve control solenoid with an internally shorted winding
Harness pinched under a fastener, bracket or cover during previous engine service
Oil-soaked connector allowing a conductive path between the control terminal and ground
Insulation hardened and cracked by years of underhood heat cycling
Incorrect replacement solenoid with a coil resistance well below specification, drawing excess current
Chafed harness resting against a machined casting edge or a sharp bracket
Water or coolant ingress into the connector body after a cooling system leak
Failed low-side driver inside the module holding its own output down

Symptoms

Check engine light on with P0076 stored
Loss of low-speed torque and reduced throttle response
Rough or uneven idle
Increased fuel consumption
Camshaft position parameter that does not follow the commanded value
Solenoid output showing as disabled or shut down on a scan tool after an overcurrent event
Blown fuse on the circuit shared with the solenoid on vehicles where the supply is fused separately
Code returning immediately after being cleared, because a hard short is present continuously

Diagnostic steps

1.Unplug the solenoid connector with the ignition on, clear the code and see which fault the module now logs. A change to a high or open circuit code proves the coil was the short; an unchanged low code proves it was not.
2.If the code stays low with the connector disconnected, measure resistance from the control terminal on the harness side to chassis ground with the ignition off — a low reading confirms a short in the wiring.
3.Measure the solenoid's own coil resistance across its two terminals and compare with the manufacturer's specification, since a winding well below spec confirms an internal short.
4.Trace the harness pigtail along its run across the cylinder head or front cover. Lift it and look at the face that was against the casting. A chafe mark is hidden on the top surface.
5.Check every point where the loom passes under a bracket, clip or fastener head, since a crushed conductor from earlier service work produces exactly this fault.
6.Inspect the connector for oil migration, coolant residue and corrosion, all of which create conductive paths between terminals.
7.Confirm supply voltage is present at the feed terminal, to establish that the circuit is complete on the power side before attributing everything to the control side.
8.After any repair, clear the code and cycle the ignition off and on before retesting, because many modules latch a shorted output off for the remainder of the key cycle and will otherwise appear still faulty.
9.Run a bidirectional actuation test and confirm the solenoid clicks and the camshaft position parameter responds.
10.Complete a road test covering the speed and load range where phasing operates, then recheck for stored codes.

Repair cost

$170 – $2,080 (variable valve timing control solenoid replacement, parts and labor, from the 2023 Honda CR-V year line through the 2021–2022 Toyota Corolla year line)

P0076 uses RepairPal's variable valve timing control solenoid job, updated 3 September 2026: national average $469–$594 (labor $196–$288, parts $273–$306). The Honda CR-V model page is $238–$362 (labor $55–$81, parts $183–$282). The 2023 and 2025 Honda CR-V year lines are $173–$212. The Toyota Corolla model page is $879–$952 (labor $121–$178, parts $758–$774). The 2021 and 2022 Toyota Corolla year lines are $1,937–$2,074. The printed $170–$2,080 pair rounds the 2023 CR-V low and the 2021–2022 Corolla high. Wiring, a valve-cover gasket, and a phaser are outside it. RepairPal says these solenoids are not interchangeable and that the part number or the VIN is how you match one, and that dirty or broken-down oil is why solenoids fail. Oil is not the circuit repair. If the solenoid clicks and the cam does not move, then check oil and the screen. Check-engine diagnosis is $125–$183 and is separate.

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DIY vs shop

This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.