OBD-II trouble code
P0106: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance
The MAP (or barometric pressure) sensor is reading a value that is electrically valid but implausible for current engine conditions. The ECM sees a pressure signal that doesn't match throttle position, RPM, and airflow, so it flags the sensor's performance.
Quick facts
- System
- Powertrain
- Category
- Fuel & Air Metering
- Severity
- Medium severity
- Drivable
- Usually safe to drive short-term
- Repair cost range
- $40 – $400
- DIY difficulty
- Intermediate DIY
What does P0106 mean?
The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor measures the pressure inside the intake manifold, which the engine control module (ECM) uses to calculate engine load and meter fuel and spark. On many engines the same sensor also reads barometric pressure at key-on to compensate for altitude. P0106 is a range/performance code: unlike a circuit-low or circuit-high code that points at a clear electrical fault, P0106 sets when the signal is within its normal voltage range but the value is implausible for what the engine is actually doing. For example, the ECM expects low manifold pressure (high vacuum) at idle and near-atmospheric pressure at wide-open throttle; if the reported pressure doesn't track throttle, RPM, and airflow the way it should, the sensor's performance is questioned.
Because the MAP signal drives fueling, a performance fault here commonly causes a rich or lean condition, rough idle, hesitation, or reduced power, and it can mimic or accompany vacuum-leak and MAF-related codes. The most frequent real-world causes are intake vacuum leaks, a clogged or leaking MAP sensor vacuum port/hose, a contaminated or drifting sensor, and wiring or connector problems. A quick, cheap check is to inspect for vacuum leaks and confirm the sensor's port and hose are clear before replacing the sensor itself.
Common causes
- Intake manifold or vacuum-hose leak skewing manifold pressure
- Clogged, cracked, or disconnected MAP sensor vacuum port/hose
- Contaminated, drifting, or failed MAP sensor element
- Corroded or loose MAP sensor connector
- Damaged signal, ground, or reference wiring to the sensor
- Restricted air intake or a dirty air filter altering expected pressure
- A large unmetered air (vacuum) leak downstream of the throttle
Symptoms
- Check engine light on, sometimes flashing under load
- Rough or unstable idle, stalling, or hesitation
- Reduced power or poor acceleration
- Rich or lean running, black smoke, or poor fuel economy
- Hard starting in some cases
Diagnostic steps
- 1.Scan and record all codes; note any companion vacuum-leak, MAF, or fuel-trim codes.
- 2.Inspect the MAP sensor vacuum port and hose (if fitted) for clogging, cracks, or disconnection.
- 3.Smoke-test or otherwise check the intake for vacuum leaks, a leading cause of range/performance faults.
- 4.Compare live MAP readings against throttle position and RPM: pressure should be low at idle and rise toward atmospheric at wide-open throttle.
- 5.Check the sensor's 5V reference, ground, and signal wiring for damage and corrosion at the connector.
- 6.If the signal is implausible with good wiring and no leaks, replace the MAP sensor and re-verify readings.
Repair cost
$40 – $400
A MAP sensor is inexpensive — parts are often $15-$120 and labor is minimal, so a straightforward replacement is frequently $60-$200. Fixing an underlying vacuum leak varies with its location. Because a vacuum leak or a clogged port often triggers P0106, confirm the cause before replacing the sensor.
Estimate your repair
Run the numbers for your vehicle
Open the Repair Cost Estimator with map sensor replacement preselected. Adjust labor rate and vehicle category to fit your situation.
DIY vs shop
This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.