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OBD-II trouble code

P0337: Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Low

SAE J2012: Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Low. The signal is below the expected range. Test the connector, the wiring, and the sensor before any deeper engine work. A crank-signal fault can cause a no-start or a stall.

High severityPowertrainSensors / TimingDo not drive

Quick facts

System
Powertrain
Category
Sensors / Timing
Severity
High severity
Drivable
No — stop driving until repaired
Repair cost range
$200 – $400 (crankshaft position sensor replacement)
DIY difficulty
Intermediate DIY

Browse every code in P0300–P0394, or start from the full code library.

What does P0337 mean?

P0337 is the 'circuit low input' member of the crankshaft position sensor 'A' family. The CKP sensor reads a toothed reluctor wheel on the crankshaft and reports engine position and speed — the master reference the PCM uses for spark timing, injector timing, and misfire detection. P0337 sets when the voltage on that circuit stays below the expected range: the signal is too low, too weak, or pulled down. That's an electrical complaint about signal level, in contrast to P0336 (signal present but implausible), P0335 (general circuit fault), and P0338 (signal too high).

Test the circuit and the sensor seating before the reluctor wheel. A short to ground, an open, a corroded connector, a failed sensor, and — on a three-wire sensor — a lost supply or ground can each hold the signal low. The chart says which. A sensor that is not fully seated, a doubled O-ring, a missing spacer, debris under the flange, or an aftermarket body of a different length changes the gap. Where the service information gives no air-gap adjustment, seating is the check. Do not invent a clearance. Because the level is wrong rather than the pattern, circuit testing — shorts, opens, supply and ground — is the productive path.

Before testing the sensor itself, establish which of the two kinds you have, because the right test is different for each and the wrong one produces a confident wrong answer. A two-wire sensor is a variable-reluctance magnetic pickup: it generates its own AC signal, with an amplitude that climbs as the engine turns faster. A three-wire sensor is a Hall-effect device fed a supply and a ground, and it switches a clean square wave between its rails. The two-wire type has a winding you can measure; the three-wire type does not, and its output is a digital pattern rather than a level.

The practical impact is significant: with the crank reference too low to use, the engine often won't start, or starts and stalls, runs roughly, or cuts out unpredictably. The tachometer may read zero or erratically during cranking. This is not a code to drive on casually — the engine can quit without warning and may strand you. Diagnosis starts at the sensor connector: verify supply and ground where applicable, check the signal wire for a short to ground or an open, inspect for corrosion, and confirm the sensor's output level against spec before replacing it.

Common causes

  • Short to ground in the CKP signal wire pulling the circuit low
  • Open circuit or high resistance collapsing the signal level
  • Corroded or loose connector at the sensor
  • Failed CKP sensor unable to drive the circuit to normal level
  • Loss of supply voltage or bad ground on a powered (three-wire) sensor
  • Sensor not fully seated — debris, a doubled-up O-ring, a missing spacer, or an aftermarket sensor of slightly different body length
  • Damaged wiring shared with or routed near other circuits

Symptoms

  • Check engine light with P0337 stored
  • No-start or hard-start condition
  • Engine that starts then stalls
  • Rough running or unexpected stalling while driving
  • Tachometer reading zero or erratically during cranking
  • Intermittent loss of spark or fuel

Diagnostic steps

  1. 1.Inspect the CKP sensor connector first for corrosion, looseness, and backed-out pins — a frequent and quick-to-find cause.
  2. 2.On a powered sensor, verify supply voltage and ground at the connector before testing the signal.
  3. 3.Check the signal wire for a short to ground and for opens or high resistance back to the PCM.
  4. 4.Test the sensor according to its type. On a two-wire magnetic pickup, unplug it and measure the winding against the resistance figure in the service data — an open or a badly out-of-range winding condemns it outright — then scope the output while cranking and judge the waveform's shape and consistency rather than one voltage, because its amplitude legitimately rises and falls with cranking speed. On a three-wire Hall sensor, confirm supply and ground first, then scope for a square wave that swings fully between its rails.
  5. 5.Be wary of a multimeter here. It cannot confirm a crank signal is 'in spec': on a two-wire sensor it averages an AC pulse train whose level varies with cranking speed, and on a Hall sensor it reports a figure part-way between the two rails because the output is switching. It is useful for proving that something rather than nothing is being produced, and for supply, ground and continuity — the waveform decision belongs to a scope.
  6. 6.Confirm the sensor is properly seated and its mounting bolt torqued, with the correct single O-ring or spacer, since anything holding the tip away from the teeth weakens the signal.
  7. 7.Replace the sensor only after wiring, connector, supply, and ground all check out.

Repair cost

$200 – $400 (crankshaft position sensor replacement)

Crankshaft position sensor replacement, parts plus labor. This $200–$400 range is that sensor replacement. RepairPal's national average for the crankshaft position sensor is about $230–$335, with vehicle examples about $205–$375. Wiring, a connector, a short, an open, or a lost supply is not this sensor price and can land under it when the sensor tests good. A reluctor wheel is discussed on this page and is not included in this range.

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DIY vs shop

This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.

Related codes

Frequently asked questions

What does 'circuit low input' mean for the crank sensor?

The voltage on the crankshaft position sensor A circuit is below the expected range. Test a short to ground, an open, a lost supply or ground on a powered sensor, and a failed sensor, in the order this engine's chart gives. It is a level complaint, so the reluctor wheel is not the first part.

Will my car start with P0337?

Often not, or not reliably. The crankshaft position signal is the engine's primary timing reference, and if it reads too low to use, the PCM may have no usable crank position — so the engine cranks but won't fire, or starts and immediately stalls. Some vehicles run intermittently if the level is marginal rather than fully lost. Either way it's not dependable, so plan to diagnose it rather than drive on it, since it can quit without warning.

Is P0337 the sensor or the wiring?

Either, and the wiring and connector are worth checking before buying a sensor. A short to ground, an open wire, a corroded connector, or a lost supply or ground all produce a low-input reading with a perfectly good sensor. Start at the connector: inspect it, confirm power and ground if it is a three-wire sensor, and test the signal wire for shorts and opens. Then test the sensor the way its type allows — winding resistance and a scope trace on a two-wire magnetic pickup, supply, ground and a scope trace on a three-wire Hall unit. If the circuit is sound and the sensor's own output is weak or absent while cranking, the sensor is the likely fault.

Can a low crank signal damage the engine?

The fault itself doesn't mechanically harm the engine — the main risk is operational: stalling and no-start, which become safety and stranding concerns rather than engine damage. The PCM cuts spark and fuel when it loses a trustworthy crank reference, which actually protects the engine. The real urgency with P0337 is reliability and safety: an engine that can quit at any moment shouldn't be driven in traffic or at speed until the timing signal is restored to a normal level.

Editorial context

About This Diagnostic Information

AutoLogicTools diagnostic guides explain OBD-II trouble codes using recognized code definitions, standard automotive diagnostic principles, and practical automotive context. A trouble code records a condition detected by a control module. It does not automatically identify a failed part, and the right diagnostic procedure can vary by vehicle.

Manufacturer service information, technical service bulletins, wiring diagrams, and vehicle-specific procedures should take precedence when available.

AutoLogicTools was founded by Vincent Fisk, an automotive locksmith and shop owner in San Diego with hands-on experience in vehicle keys, immobilizer systems, electrical issues, modules, programming, and diagnostics.