OBD-II trouble code
P0746: Pressure Control Solenoid "A" Performance or Stuck Off
The transmission's pressure control solenoid A isn't regulating hydraulic pressure as commanded — it's underperforming or stuck in the off (open) position. Expect harsh or delayed shifts, and address it before heat damages the transmission.
Quick facts
- System
- Powertrain
- Category
- Transmission / Pressure Control
- Severity
- Medium severity
- Drivable
- Usually safe to drive short-term
- Repair cost range
- $150 – $900
- DIY difficulty
- Shop recommended
What does P0746 mean?
P0746 sets when the transmission control module (TCM) or PCM commands pressure control solenoid "A" to regulate line pressure and the solenoid doesn't respond the way it should. Where the electrical circuit code for this solenoid catches a clear open or short, P0746 is the performance-and-behavior code: the circuit may test fine electrically, but the solenoid isn't delivering the pressure the module expects — hence "performance or stuck off." "Stuck off" means the valve is stuck in its de-energized, open state and won't build the pressure it's told to.
Pressure control solenoid A regulates the mainline hydraulic pressure that applies the clutches and bands inside the transmission. When it can't hold the commanded pressure, shifts happen at the wrong firmness — usually harsh, delayed, or slipping — and the transmission can run hotter than normal. Because the same low-pressure symptom can come from things other than the solenoid, the code doesn't automatically mean the solenoid is dead.
The most common real-world causes are low or dirty transmission fluid, a solenoid whose valve is sticking on varnish, and valve-body wear. A worn or contaminated valve body can bleed off pressure so the solenoid never reaches its target even though it's working. That's why a fluid level and condition check comes first, and why this code is often solved with a fluid service or a valve-body repair rather than a solenoid swap. Left alone, chronic low pressure causes clutch slip, and slip creates heat that shortens the life of the whole transmission — so it's worth diagnosing promptly.
Common causes
- Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty or degraded transmission fluid causing valve stiction
- Pressure control solenoid A sticking on varnish or debris
- Worn or contaminated valve body bleeding off line pressure
- Failed or weak pressure control solenoid A
- Restricted transmission filter starving the pump
- Internal transmission wear reducing achievable pressure
Symptoms
- Check engine light on with P0746 stored
- Harsh, delayed, or flaring shifts
- Transmission slipping under load
- Transmission running hotter than normal
- Falling into limp mode in some cases
- Reduced fuel economy when the converter or clutches slip
Diagnostic steps
- 1.Check transmission fluid level and condition first — low or burnt fluid is a common cause and the cheapest to rule out.
- 2.Scan for companion transmission codes; a general P0700 confirms the TCM has stored transmission faults.
- 3.Read line-pressure live data if the transmission supports it, and compare commanded versus actual pressure.
- 4.Inspect the solenoid connector and harness for corrosion or damage.
- 5.Resistance-check pressure control solenoid A against specification to see whether it's electrically healthy.
- 6.If the solenoid tests good and fluid is fresh, suspect valve-body wear or contamination bleeding off pressure.
Repair cost
$150 – $900
A transmission fluid and filter service ($150-$350) is the first step and sometimes the whole fix. A pressure control solenoid replacement runs roughly $250-$700 depending on whether it's externally accessible or requires dropping the pan or valve body. Valve-body repair or replacement is the higher end. Diagnosing line pressure properly is worth the labor before replacing internal parts.
Estimate your repair
Run the numbers for your vehicle
Open the Repair Cost Estimator with transmission shift solenoid replacement preselected. Adjust labor rate and vehicle category to fit your situation.
DIY vs shop
Leave this one to a qualified shop. It typically involves emissions-critical components, refrigerant handling, or other work that requires manufacturer-grade tooling, training, or certification. DIY attempts often produce a more expensive problem than the original code.