I have this code and the bank 1 high code together. Two bad sensors?

Very unlikely. Independent components do not fail at the same instant in the same direction. What the two sensors share is the ground splice they both return through, the reference that feeds them and the module pins they land on — and losing any of those sends both signals high at once. Test the shared circuits first. It is one repair rather than two, and it spares you disassembling the rear of the engine for a sensor that is fine.

Why does a lost ground make the voltage go up?

The sensor is a divider stretched between the reference at the top and ground at the bottom, with the signal tapped in between. The ground end is what holds the signal down. Remove it and the signal is left tied to the reference through the sensor's own resistance, so it climbs to sit just under five volts. Nothing has shorted to power — something has come disconnected — and looking for an intrusion will find nothing.

The code comes back every time it rains. Is that meaningful?

Very. On most transverse V engines the bank 2 sensor sits at the rear of the engine below the cowl, which is exactly where water shed off the windscreen drains and where washing water collects. A connector there corrodes from behind the seal, and a corroded ground terminal is precisely what drives this signal high. A weather-tracking pattern points at that connector and away from any amount of harness tracing.

Can I test this without taking the back of the engine apart?

Much of it, yes. Both banks' position signals are present at the module connector, which is usually far more accessible than a rear-head sensor, and comparing them there tells you whether the problem belongs to bank 2 alone or to something both banks share. The ground return can be measured at the same place. Only if that narrows the fault to the sensor or its own short pigtail do you need to gain access to the sensor itself.

OBD-II trouble code

P2022: Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor / Switch Circuit High (Bank 2)

A high signal on the far bank. Before anything else, check whether the bank 1 high code is stored too — two banks reading high at the same instant is one shared circuit failing, not two sensors that happened to die together.

Medium severityPowertrainAir Intake / Manifold ControlDrivable short-term

Quick facts

System: Powertrain
Category: Air Intake / Manifold Control
Severity: Medium severity
Drivable: Usually safe to drive short-term
Repair cost range: $120 – $900
DIY difficulty: Intermediate DIY

What does P2022 mean?

The single most useful thing to do with this code is to look at what is stored beside it, because the pattern of codes tells you where to work before any measurement does.

P2022 on its own is a bank 2 problem and belongs to that branch of the harness. P2022 together with P2017 — both banks reading high, set at the same moment — is almost never two independent sensor failures. Two sensors do not fail simultaneously in the same direction. What they have in common is the circuitry they share: the ground splice both return through, the reference supply that feeds both, and the module pins those land on. A both-banks-high pattern makes that shared element the first suspect and the sensors themselves the last, which is the opposite of the order most people work in and saves a great deal of time on an engine where one of those sensors is behind the cowl.

The reason a shared ground produces high readings on both banks at once is worth understanding rather than memorising. Each sensor is a divider strung between the reference and ground. The ground end anchors the low side. If the splice both sensors return through corrodes or opens, both dividers lose their anchor at the same instant and both signals drift up toward reference. Nothing has shorted; something has disconnected. Chase it as a power problem and you will find nothing at all.

With only the bank 2 code stored, the fault is local to that branch and the candidates narrow to three: an open or resistive ground on that sensor alone, a short between its signal and reference wires, or a sensor with an internally open element. Of the three, the connector deserves attention first because of where it sits. On most transverse V engines the bank 2 sensor lives at the rear of the engine below the cowl, which is where water shed off the windscreen collects and where road spray and washing water find their way down. Connectors in that position corrode from the back, through the seal, and the corrosion attacks the ground terminal as readily as any other — producing precisely the open-ground condition that drives the signal high.

That also means the fault can be seasonal in character: appearing in wet weather, clearing in dry, and returning after the vehicle is washed. A high-signal code with that history is a connector until proven otherwise, and no amount of harness tracing will explain it.

One practical note on testing. Reaching this sensor to unplug it may cost real disassembly, so take what you can from the module end first. Both banks' signals are available at the module connector, and comparing them there — with the sensors still connected — will usually tell you whether you are dealing with one branch or with something they share, before a single fastener is removed.

Common causes

Corroded ground terminal in the bank 2 sensor connector, exposed to water shed from the cowl area
Open or high-resistance ground return unique to the bank 2 sensor
Failed shared ground splice, which sets high codes on both banks at once
Short between the signal and reference wires in the bank 2 pigtail
Sensor with an internally open resistive element
Chafed harness bridging signal to reference where the loom passes a bracket or bolt
Short to battery voltage from damaged or badly repaired wiring near the rear of the engine

Symptoms

Check engine light on
Bank 2 position reading pinned at or near maximum and not responding to commanded movement
Both banks reading high simultaneously when a shared ground has failed
Fault that appears in wet weather or after the vehicle is washed and clears when dry
Bank 2 stuck-runner codes stored because the module cannot see movement
Loss of low-speed torque once runner control is abandoned

Diagnostic steps

1.Read all stored codes first. P2022 alongside P2017 points at a shared ground or reference rather than at either sensor, and changes where you start entirely.
2.If both banks read high, test the shared ground splice and the module ground pins before touching either sensor. Two simultaneous failures in the same direction are almost always one common cause.
3.With only the bank 2 code present, measure voltage on that sensor's ground return with the key on. Anything above about a tenth of a volt indicates a resistive or open ground.
4.Compare both banks' signals at the module connector before disassembling anything. That connector is far easier to reach than a rear-head sensor and answers the one-branch-or-shared question directly.
5.Ask whether the fault tracks the weather. A high code that comes and goes with rain or washing is a corroded connector, and tracing harness will not find it.
6.Inspect the bank 2 connector for corrosion behind the seal as well as on the terminal faces, and confirm the seal itself is intact and seated.
7.With the sensor unplugged, check for continuity between the signal and reference wires. Any path between them puts reference voltage on the signal and produces this code.
8.If the harness and grounds check out, measure the sensor's own resistance across its travel and replace it if the element reads open at any point.

Repair cost

$120 – $900

A corroded connector cleaned and re-terminated is $120 to $300. Repairing a failed ground splice is $150 to $400. A separately serviced sensor is $120 to $350 fitted where access is good; on a rear head under the cowl, a sensor integral to the actuator runs $400 to $900 installed. Where both banks are affected by one shared circuit, the fix is a single repair rather than two.

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DIY vs shop

This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.