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OBD-II code family

Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Minimum Stop Performance (P2109–P2117)

6 codes describing the same fault on 6 enumerated slots. The letter is the index your manufacturer assigned — it is not a physical difference, and it does not carry across makes.

What these codes mean

Every drive-by-wire vehicle has to know one thing before it can interpret anything else the driver does: where closed actually is. The throttle plate's fully-shut position and the accelerator pedal's fully-released position are not fixed numbers from the factory. They drift as carbon builds on the throttle bore, as return springs age, as a pedal assembly wears, and as manufacturing tolerance varies between one component and the next. So the module learns them, stores the learned values, and rechecks them. This family of codes sets when that learned closed position — the minimum stop — is outside the window the module will accept, or when the learn procedure cannot complete at all.

The letter is the part people over-interpret. A through F identifies which sensor channel reported the problem, and it is a slot index assigned by the manufacturer rather than a description of a physical location. There is no cross-industry table that says 'C' means a particular sensor. Broadly, the lower letters tend to sit on the throttle body side and the higher ones on the pedal assembly, because modern systems use redundant sensor pairs on each — two independent tracks on the pedal and two on the throttle plate, so the module can cross-check one against the other and detect a liar. But which letter is which on your vehicle comes from the wiring diagram for your exact year, make and model, and nowhere else. If a shop tells you the letter identifies the part, ask to see it in the diagram.

What the letters do tell you collectively is how many channels the system has. A vehicle capable of reporting E or F has an unusually rich position-sensing arrangement, which in practice means a vehicle with additional redundancy — some diesels, some performance applications, some vehicles with adaptive cruise or driver assistance that needs an independent read on driver demand.

The diagnosis is the same regardless of letter, and it starts somewhere cheaper than most people expect. A carboned throttle bore is the leading cause on high-mileage petrol engines: soot accumulates around the plate, the plate can no longer close to the position it learned when the engine was new, and the module reads a minimum stop it does not believe. Cleaning the throttle body and running the relearn procedure resolves a significant share of these codes for the price of a can of cleaner and half an hour. The other common causes are a pedal or throttle body sensor that has worn a flat spot in its track, a connector with high resistance shifting the reported voltage, and a module that had its adaptations cleared — after a battery disconnect, a software update, or a throttle body replacement — without the relearn being carried out afterwards.

That last one deserves emphasis because it produces a code with nothing wrong behind it. Many vehicles require a specific idle or throttle position relearn sequence after the throttle body is cleaned or replaced, and skipping it leaves the module comparing live readings against adaptations that no longer apply. If the code appeared immediately after service work, run the relearn before buying anything.

Treat these as prompt rather than emergency. Most vehicles will still drive, though frequently in a reduced-power mode with a soft throttle, an unstable idle, or a noticeable delay between pressing the pedal and the engine responding. The reason not to leave it is that the module has lost confidence in its reading of driver demand, and the failsafes it applies in that state are deliberately conservative — which is fine until you need the throttle response you no longer have.

Which throttle/pedal position sensor is mine?

There is no generic answer, and any source that gives you one is guessing. The letter is assigned by the vehicle manufacturer, and the same letter refers to different physical components on different makes — sometimes on different model years of the same vehicle. The only authoritative source is the wiring diagram or service information for your exact year, make, model and body style.

A manufacturer-specific definition always outranks the generic one. If your make publishes its own meaning for this code, use that and ignore the generic description.