What does 'minimum stop performance' actually mean?

It refers to the rest position — the mechanical stop the sensor sits against when the driver is asking for nothing. On most vehicles that is the accelerator pedal fully released; on platforms where the letter refers to a throttle-body sensor it is the plate against its closed hard stop. The module stores a learned value for what the sensor should read at that position and rechecks it. P2113 means the 'B' sensor is not reporting it. The important part is that the sensor can be electrically perfect and still fail this check, which is what separates this code from the circuit codes P0220 through P0224.

Could a floor mat really cause this code?

Yes, and it is the first thing to check. The module is testing whether the sensor reads its learned rest value, and a mat, an unsecured piece of cargo, a rolled water bottle, road debris, or packed snow holding the pedal even a few degrees open makes that check fail on a completely healthy sensor. It takes thirty seconds to look and it costs nothing. It is also worth correcting regardless of the code, since anything that can hold a pedal down is a safety problem on its own terms.

Should I adjust the throttle stop screw to fix P2113?

No. On virtually all electronic throttle bodies that screw is factory-set and is not a service adjustment. The minimum stop is the reference the entire drive-by-wire strategy measures from, and turning the screw corrupts it — you can turn a diagnosable code into an unsolvable one and, on some platforms, make the throttle body unusable. If the plate is not closing fully, the cause is carbon, binding, or a damaged shaft, and the fix is cleaning or replacement followed by the relearn. Leave the screw alone.

How is P2113 different from P2114?

Same test, different sensor. P2113 is the 'B' channel and P2114 is the 'C' channel. If you have only one of the two, the fault is likely in that specific sensor or its individual circuit. If you have both, the cause is much more likely to be something they share: the pedal assembly's rest position, a common ground, the reference supply, or a stale learned value that needs a relearn. That distinction is the fastest way to narrow the diagnosis before you pick up a meter.

Can I drive with P2113?

You can move the vehicle, but do not rely on it. Power is capped and acceleration is poor, and a car that will not accelerate is a real hazard when merging or crossing traffic. There is also nothing stopping a second sensor from faulting as well, at which point the module can force idle or shut the engine down. Braking and steering are unaffected, so a short low-speed trip to a shop is reasonable — treating it as a normal daily driver is not.

OBD-II trouble code

P2113: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor 'B' Minimum Stop Performance

The 'B' sensor is not reporting the correct rest position. The module checked what the sensor reads when nothing is pressing on it and got a value that does not match the learned closed or released position.

High severityPowertrainThrottle / IdleDrivable short-term

Quick facts

System: Powertrain
Category: Throttle / Idle
Severity: High severity
Drivable: Usually safe to drive short-term
Repair cost range: $0 – $600
DIY difficulty: Intermediate DIY

What does P2113 mean?

Drive-by-wire systems depend on knowing one value with certainty: where the sensor sits when the driver is asking for nothing. That is the minimum stop — the mechanical rest position of the accelerator pedal on most vehicles, or of the throttle plate against its hard stop on the platforms where the letter refers to a throttle-body sensor. Every request the module interprets is measured from that baseline, so it stores a learned value for it and rechecks it. P2113 sets when the 'B' sensor's rest value falls outside the acceptable window.

This is a narrower and more specific complaint than the codes around it, and that distinction is what makes the family diagnosable instead of confusing. The circuit codes — P0220 through P0224 for the 'B' channel — say the signal is electrically unacceptable: open, low, high, or intermittent. The correlation codes P2135 and P2138 say two sensors disagree with each other. P2113 says something different from both. The signal may be electrically perfect, and it may track its partner sensor faithfully across the entire sweep, and still be wrong about one single thing: where zero is. A sensor whose whole output has drifted a few tenths of a volt, or a pedal that no longer returns all the way to its stop, produces exactly that.

Which is why the very first thing to check costs nothing. An accelerator pedal held a few degrees off its rest position — by a thick or unsecured floor mat, a water bottle that rolled underneath, a piece of cargo, road debris, or ice and packed snow in winter — will set this code on entirely healthy hardware. It is also a safety hazard independent of the code, so it is worth looking at whether or not it turns out to be the cause. Beyond that, a worn or binding pedal pivot, a weak pedal return spring, and a pedal bracket bent by an impact or by pressure from underneath all leave the pedal resting where it should not.

On platforms where 'B' is a throttle-body sensor rather than a pedal sensor, the equivalent mechanical cause is carbon. Deposits around the plate edge and the shaft physically prevent the plate from closing all the way to its stop, so the sensor honestly reports a rest position that is not the learned one. Direct-injection engines accumulate these deposits faster, because no fuel washes the intake side. Cleaning is the fix there — with the mandatory caveat that the relearn must follow, since the module had adapted to the deposits and removing them without relearning can set a fresh code.

There is one instruction worth stating explicitly: do not touch the minimum-stop screw on the throttle body. It is factory-set on virtually all electronic throttle bodies, and moving it corrupts the exact reference the entire control strategy is built on. Whatever is wrong, that screw is not the adjustment that fixes it.

The rest of the causes are what you would expect from any sensor: internal wear and output drift, a reference voltage shifted by a resistive ground or a marginal 5-volt supply, corrosion or a backed-out pin at the connector, and low system voltage skewing every reading at once. Also rule out the bookkeeping cause early — if the vehicle recently had a pedal assembly, a throttle body, a battery, or a module reflash, the stored rest value may simply be stale, and the relearn may clear the code with no parts at all.

Because the module can no longer be confident where 'no request' is, it will not act fully on the pedal. Expect a reduced-power state and a fail-safe code from the P2104 / P2105 / P2106 / P2110 group alongside this one.

Common causes

Floor mat, cargo, debris, or packed snow holding the accelerator pedal off its rest position
Worn or binding accelerator pedal pivot preventing a full return
Weak or broken pedal return spring
Bent pedal bracket or a pedal assembly disturbed by an impact or by under-dash work
Carbon buildup preventing full plate closure, on platforms where the 'B' sensor is on the throttle body
Internal wear or output drift in the 'B' position sensor
Pedal or throttle relearn procedure never performed after a related repair, battery disconnect, or reflash
Corroded connector, backed-out pin, or a damaged locking tab at the sensor
High-resistance sensor ground shifting the entire signal range
Out-of-specification 5-volt reference supply from the control module
Chafed or partially shorted wiring in the sensor harness
Low system voltage from a weak battery or failing alternator skewing sensor readings
Minimum-stop screw disturbed by a previous repair attempt

Symptoms

Check engine light on, often at key-on before the vehicle is driven
Reduced engine power warning on the dash
Limp mode with throttle response capped regardless of pedal input
Engine idles but does not respond fully to the accelerator
Idle higher than normal or slow to settle after lifting off
Hesitation or an inconsistent feel from one pedal press to the next
Vehicle unable to reach highway speed
A companion code such as P2114, P2135, or a fail-safe code stored alongside it

Diagnostic steps

1.Look under the accelerator pedal before anything else. A mat, a bottle, cargo, or debris holding the pedal even slightly open sets this code, costs nothing to correct, and is a hazard in its own right.
2.Scan every module and record all stored and pending codes with freeze frame data. P2113 alone points at the 'B' sensor or its rest position; P2113 with P2114 points at the pedal assembly or something the two channels share.
3.Confirm in service data which physical sensor your manufacturer designates 'B'. On many vehicles it is a channel inside the accelerator pedal assembly, on others it is in the throttle body — verify before ordering a part.
4.Ask what changed just before the light appeared. A recent pedal or throttle body replacement, battery disconnect, or module reflash makes a stale learned value the likely cause and the relearn the likely fix.
5.Test the battery and charging system. Low voltage and excessive ripple shift sensor reference values and produce rest-position faults on healthy sensors.
6.Operate the pedal by hand and release it. It should return smoothly and fully to its stop with no binding, no roughness, and no hesitation at the end of travel.
7.With the key on and engine off, read the 'B' sensor's rest value in live data and compare it against the specification in service data rather than against a guess at what looks normal.
8.Do not adjust the minimum-stop screw on the throttle body. It is factory-set on electronic throttle bodies and moving it corrupts the reference the entire strategy depends on.
9.Perform a loaded voltage-drop test on the sensor ground. A resistive ground raises the whole signal range and shifts the rest value without breaking anything else.
10.Verify the 5-volt reference at the sensor connector with the key on, measured against a known-good chassis ground.
11.Graph the 'B' signal alongside its partner channel while sweeping the pedal slowly through full travel and releasing it, watching specifically whether the trace returns to the same rest value every time.
12.If the 'B' sensor is on the throttle body, remove the intake duct and inspect the bore and plate edge for carbon. Clean if deposits are present, then run the relearn — cleaning without relearning can set a fresh code.
13.Inspect the connector for corrosion, moisture, spread or backed-out terminals, and a properly seated locking tab, then wiggle-test the harness with live data displayed.
14.If wiring, reference, and ground all test good and the rest value is still out of specification, run the relearn procedure; if the code returns, replace the pedal assembly or throttle body and relearn again.

Repair cost

$0 – $600

The low end is zero and it is not theoretical — repositioning a floor mat, removing an object from under the pedal, reseating a connector, or running the relearn procedure are all genuine no-parts fixes for this specific code, and between them they account for a meaningful share of cases. Diagnosis alone typically runs $75-$150. Throttle body cleaning is roughly $80-$200 where the 'B' sensor is on the throttle body. Wiring or connector repair falls around $100-$300 with diagnostic time. An accelerator pedal assembly runs roughly $150-$400 installed on mainstream vehicles and up to $500 or more on luxury platforms. Most platforms require a relearn afterward, so budget for it.

Estimate your repair

Run the numbers for your vehicle

Open the Repair Cost Estimator with throttle body cleaning preselected. Adjust labor rate and vehicle category to fit your situation.

Estimate your repair cost

DIY vs shop

This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.