What does 'minimum stop performance' actually mean?

It refers to the rest position — the mechanical stop the sensor sits against when the driver is asking for nothing. On most vehicles that is the accelerator pedal fully released; on platforms where the letter refers to a throttle body sensor it is the plate against its closed hard stop. The module stores a learned value for what the sensor should read at that position and rechecks it. P2115 means the 'D' sensor is not reporting it. Importantly, the sensor can be electrically perfect and still fail this check, which is what separates this code from P2120 through P2123.

Could a floor mat really cause this code?

Yes, and it is the first thing to check. The module is testing whether the sensor reads its learned rest value, and a mat, an unsecured piece of cargo, a rolled water bottle, road debris, or packed snow holding the pedal even a few degrees open makes that check fail on a completely healthy sensor. It takes thirty seconds to look and it costs nothing. It is also worth correcting regardless of the code, since anything that can hold a pedal down is a safety problem on its own terms.

How is P2115 different from P2116?

Same test, different sensor. P2115 is the 'D' sensor and P2116 is the 'E' sensor — the two redundant channels the module cross-checks against each other. If you have only one of the two codes, the fault is likely in that specific sensor or its individual circuit. If you have both, the cause is much more likely to be something they share: the pedal assembly's rest position, a common ground, the reference supply, or a stale learned value that needs a relearn. That distinction is the fastest way to narrow the diagnosis.

Can I drive with P2115?

You can move the vehicle, but do not rely on it. Power is capped and acceleration is poor, and a car that will not accelerate is a real hazard when merging or crossing traffic. There is also nothing stopping the second sensor from faulting as well, at which point the module can force idle or shut the engine down. Braking and steering are unaffected, so a short low-speed trip to a shop is reasonable — treating it as a normal daily driver is not.

OBD-II trouble code

P2115: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor 'D' Minimum Stop Performance

The 'D' sensor is not reporting the correct rest position. The module checked what the sensor reads when nothing is pressing on it and got a value that does not match the learned closed or released position.

High severityPowertrainThrottle / IdleDrivable short-term

Quick facts

System: Powertrain
Category: Throttle / Idle
Severity: High severity
Drivable: Usually safe to drive short-term
Repair cost range: $0 – $550
DIY difficulty: Intermediate DIY

What does P2115 mean?

Drive-by-wire systems depend on knowing one value with certainty: where the sensor sits when the driver is asking for nothing. That is the minimum stop — the mechanical rest position of the accelerator pedal on most vehicles, or of the throttle plate against its hard stop on the platforms where the letter refers to a throttle body sensor. Every request the module interprets is measured from that baseline, so it stores a learned value for it and rechecks it. P2115 sets when the 'D' sensor's rest value falls outside the acceptable window.

This is a narrower and more specific complaint than the codes around it, and understanding that saves diagnostic time. The circuit codes P2120 through P2123 say the 'D' signal is electrically unacceptable — open, low, high, or implausible across its range. The correlation codes P2135 and P2138 say two sensors disagree with each other. P2115 says the signal may be electrically perfect and may track its partner sensor faithfully across the whole sweep, and still be wrong about one thing: where zero is. A sensor whose whole output has drifted a few tenths of a volt, or a pedal that no longer returns all the way to its stop, produces exactly that.

Which is why the very first thing to check costs nothing. An accelerator pedal held a few degrees off its rest position — by a thick or unsecured floor mat, a water bottle that rolled under it, a piece of cargo, road debris, or ice and packed snow in winter — will set this code on entirely healthy hardware. It is also a safety hazard independent of the code, so it is worth looking at whether or not it turns out to be the cause. Beyond that, a worn or binding pedal pivot, a weak pedal return spring, and a pedal bracket bent by an impact or by pressure from underneath all leave the pedal resting where it should not.

The rest of the causes are what you would expect from any sensor: internal wear and output drift, a reference voltage that has shifted because of a resistive ground or a marginal 5-volt supply, corrosion or a backed-out pin at the connector, and low system voltage skewing every reading at once. There is also a bookkeeping cause worth ruling out early — if the vehicle recently had a pedal assembly, a throttle body, a battery, or a module reflash, the stored rest value may simply be stale and the relearn procedure may clear the code with no parts at all.

Because the module can no longer be confident where 'no request' is, it will not act fully on the pedal. Expect a reduced-power state and a fail-safe code from the P2104 / P2105 / P2106 / P2110 group alongside this one.

Common causes

Floor mat, cargo, debris, or packed snow holding the accelerator pedal off its rest position
Worn or binding accelerator pedal pivot preventing a full return
Weak or broken pedal return spring
Bent pedal bracket or a pedal assembly disturbed by an impact or by under-dash work
Internal wear or output drift in the 'D' position sensor
Pedal or throttle relearn procedure never performed after a related repair, battery disconnect, or reflash
Corroded connector, backed-out pin, or a damaged locking tab at the sensor
High-resistance sensor ground shifting the entire signal range
Out-of-specification 5-volt reference supply from the control module
Chafed or partially shorted wiring in the sensor harness
Low system voltage from a weak battery or failing alternator skewing sensor readings
Carbon buildup preventing full plate closure, on the platforms where the 'D' sensor is on the throttle body

Symptoms

Check engine light on, often at key-on before the vehicle is driven
Reduced engine power warning on the dash
Limp mode with throttle response capped regardless of pedal input
Engine idles normally but does not respond fully to the accelerator
Idle higher than normal or slow to settle after lifting off
Hesitation or an inconsistent feel from one pedal press to the next
Vehicle unable to reach highway speed
A companion code such as P2116, P2138, or a fail-safe code stored alongside it

Diagnostic steps

1.Look under the accelerator pedal before anything else. A mat, a bottle, cargo, or debris holding the pedal even slightly open sets this code, costs nothing to correct, and is a hazard in its own right.
2.Scan every module and record all stored and pending codes with freeze frame data. P2115 alone points at the 'D' sensor or its rest position; P2115 together with P2116 points at the pedal assembly or a shared circuit.
3.Confirm in service data which physical sensor your manufacturer designates 'D'. On most vehicles it is a sensor inside the accelerator pedal assembly, not the throttle body — verify before ordering a part.
4.Ask what changed just before the light appeared. A recent pedal or throttle body replacement, battery disconnect, or module reflash makes a stale learned value the likely cause and the relearn the likely fix.
5.Test the battery and charging system. Low voltage and excessive ripple shift sensor reference values and produce rest-position faults on healthy sensors.
6.Operate the pedal by hand and let it go. It should return smoothly and fully to its stop with no binding, no roughness, and no hesitation at the end of travel.
7.With the key on and engine off, read the 'D' sensor's rest value in live data and compare it against the specification in service data rather than against a guess at what looks normal.
8.Perform a voltage-drop test on the sensor ground with the circuit loaded. A resistive ground raises the entire signal range and shifts the rest value without breaking anything else.
9.Verify the 5-volt reference at the sensor connector with the key on, measured against a known-good chassis ground.
10.Graph the 'D' and 'E' sensor signals together while sweeping the pedal slowly through full travel and releasing it. Watch specifically whether the trace returns to the same rest value every time.
11.Inspect the connector for corrosion, moisture, spread or backed-out terminals, and a properly seated locking tab, then perform a wiggle test on the harness with live data displayed.
12.If wiring, reference, and ground all test good and the rest value is still out of specification, run the relearn procedure; if the code returns, replace the pedal assembly and relearn again.

Repair cost

$0 – $550

The low end is zero and it is not theoretical — repositioning a floor mat, removing an object from under the pedal, reseating a connector, or running the relearn procedure are all genuine no-parts fixes for this specific code, and between them they account for a meaningful share of cases. Diagnosis alone typically runs $75-$150. Wiring or connector repair falls around $100-$300 with diagnostic time. An accelerator pedal assembly is the usual part when the sensor has drifted or the pivot is worn, at roughly $150-$400 installed on mainstream vehicles and up to $500 or more on luxury platforms or where the pedal is part of a larger assembly. Many platforms require a pedal relearn afterward, so budget for it.

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DIY vs shop

This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.