What does 'minimum stop performance' actually mean?

It refers to the rest position — the mechanical stop the sensor sits against when the driver is asking for nothing. On platforms where 'C' is a throttle-body sensor that is the plate against its closed hard stop; where it is a pedal channel it is the accelerator fully released. The module stores a learned value for what the sensor should read at that position and rechecks it. P2114 means the 'C' sensor is not reporting it. Crucially, the sensor can be electrically perfect and still fail this check, which is what separates this code from the circuit codes P0225 through P0228.

I just cleaned my throttle body and now I have P2114. Why?

Because the module had adapted to the deposits. Over time it learned a rest position that included the carbon holding the plate slightly open, and removing that carbon suddenly changes where the plate actually sits — so the stored learned value no longer matches reality and the check fails. This is expected, not a sign you damaged anything. Run the throttle relearn procedure for your platform and the code should clear. Treat the relearn as a mandatory part of any throttle body cleaning rather than an optional extra.

Should I adjust the throttle stop screw to fix P2114?

No. On virtually all electronic throttle bodies that screw is factory-set and is not a service adjustment. The minimum stop is the reference the entire drive-by-wire strategy measures from, and turning the screw corrupts it — you can turn a diagnosable code into an unsolvable one and, on some platforms, render the throttle body unusable. If the plate is not closing fully, the cause is carbon, binding, or a damaged shaft, and the fix is cleaning or replacement followed by the relearn.

How is P2114 different from P2113?

Same test, different sensor. P2113 is the 'B' channel and P2114 is the 'C' channel. If you have only one of the two, the fault is likely in that specific sensor or its individual circuit. If you have both, the cause is much more likely to be something they share: a common ground, the reference supply, a mechanical rest-position problem, or a stale learned value that needs a relearn. On many platforms 'B' is a pedal channel and 'C' is a throttle-body channel, so having both can also mean the fault is on the module side rather than at either sensor.

Can I drive with P2114?

You can move the vehicle, but do not rely on it. Power is capped and acceleration is poor, and a car that will not accelerate is a real hazard when merging or crossing traffic. Delayed throttle closure is its own concern — an engine slow to drop back to idle is unpleasant and unpredictable in traffic. Braking and steering are unaffected, so a short low-speed trip to a shop is reasonable, but treating it as a normal daily driver is not.

OBD-II trouble code

P2114: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor 'C' Minimum Stop Performance

The 'C' sensor is not reporting the correct rest position. The module checked what the sensor reads when nothing is pressing on it and got a value that does not match the learned closed or released position.

High severityPowertrainThrottle / IdleDrivable short-term

Quick facts

System: Powertrain
Category: Throttle / Idle
Severity: High severity
Drivable: Usually safe to drive short-term
Repair cost range: $0 – $700
DIY difficulty: Intermediate DIY

What does P2114 mean?

Drive-by-wire systems depend on knowing one value with certainty: where the sensor sits when the driver is asking for nothing. That is the minimum stop — the mechanical rest position of the accelerator pedal on most vehicles, or of the throttle plate against its hard stop on the platforms where the letter refers to a throttle-body sensor. Every request the module interprets is measured from that baseline, so it stores a learned value for it and rechecks it. P2114 sets when the 'C' sensor's rest value falls outside the acceptable window.

This is a narrower and more specific complaint than the codes around it, and that distinction is what makes the family diagnosable instead of confusing. The circuit codes — P0225 through P0228 for the 'C' channel — say the signal is electrically unacceptable: open, low, high, or invalid. The correlation codes P2135 and P2138 say two sensors disagree with each other. P2114 says something different from both. The signal may be electrically perfect, and it may track its partner sensor faithfully across the entire sweep, and still be wrong about one single thing: where zero is. A sensor whose whole output has drifted a few tenths of a volt, or a throttle plate that no longer closes all the way to its stop, produces exactly that.

The 'C' designation matters here more than in the 'A' or 'B' families, because it more often refers to a throttle-body sensor rather than a pedal sensor. On many platforms with a two-channel pedal and a two-channel throttle body, 'A' and 'B' are the pedal and 'C' and 'D' are the throttle body — but that mapping is not universal. Confirm it in service data for your exact year, make, and model before you diagnose anything, because the entire troubleshooting path forks on the answer: a pedal-side 'C' sends you under the dash, a throttle-body 'C' sends you to the intake.

On a throttle-body sensor the dominant mechanical cause is carbon. Deposits around the plate edge and the shaft physically prevent full closure, so the sensor honestly reports a rest position that is not the learned one — the sensor is telling the truth and the throttle body is the problem. Direct-injection engines build these deposits faster, because no fuel washes the intake side of the valves and bore. Cleaning is the fix, with one mandatory caveat: the relearn must follow. The module had adapted to the deposits, and removing them without relearning frequently sets a fresh code, which is why so many people report a new fault right after cleaning their throttle body. Also worth checking is a binding throttle shaft, a weak or broken return spring, and a plate damaged by debris that made it past the air filter.

One instruction deserves stating explicitly: do not touch the minimum-stop screw. It is factory-set on virtually all electronic throttle bodies, and moving it corrupts the exact reference the entire control strategy is built on. Whatever is wrong, that screw is not the adjustment that fixes it.

If 'C' turns out to be a pedal channel on your platform, the mechanical causes shift accordingly: an unsecured floor mat or debris holding the pedal off its stop, a worn or binding pivot, a weak return spring, or a bracket bent by an impact. The electrical causes are the same either way — internal wear and output drift, a reference shifted by a resistive ground or marginal 5-volt supply, connector corrosion, and low system voltage. And rule out the bookkeeping cause early: if the vehicle recently had a throttle body, pedal assembly, battery, or reflash, the stored rest value may simply be stale and the relearn may clear the code with no parts at all.

Because the module can no longer be confident where 'no request' is, it will not act fully on the pedal. Expect a reduced-power state and a fail-safe code from the P2104 / P2105 / P2106 / P2110 group alongside this one.

Common causes

Carbon buildup around the throttle plate and shaft preventing full closure, on the platforms where 'C' is a throttle-body sensor
Binding throttle shaft or a weak or broken throttle return spring
Throttle plate damaged by debris that passed the air filter
Floor mat, cargo, or debris holding the accelerator pedal off its rest position, where 'C' is a pedal channel
Worn or binding accelerator pedal pivot preventing a full return
Internal wear or output drift in the 'C' position sensor
Throttle or pedal relearn procedure never performed after a related repair, battery disconnect, or reflash
Corroded connector, backed-out pin, or a damaged locking tab at the sensor
High-resistance sensor ground shifting the entire signal range
Out-of-specification 5-volt reference supply from the control module
Chafed or partially shorted wiring in the sensor harness
Low system voltage from a weak battery or failing alternator skewing sensor readings
Minimum-stop screw disturbed by a previous repair attempt

Symptoms

Check engine light on, often at key-on before the vehicle is driven
Reduced engine power warning on the dash
Limp mode with throttle response capped regardless of pedal input
Idle higher than normal, hunting, or slow to settle after lifting off
Delayed throttle closure — engine slow to drop back to idle when the pedal is released
Hesitation or an inconsistent feel from one pedal press to the next
Vehicle unable to reach highway speed
A companion code such as P2113, P2135, or a fail-safe code stored alongside it

Diagnostic steps

1.Confirm in service data which physical sensor your manufacturer designates 'C'. The entire diagnostic path forks here — a pedal-side 'C' sends you under the dash, a throttle-body 'C' sends you to the intake.
2.If 'C' is a pedal channel, look under the accelerator pedal before anything else. A mat, a bottle, cargo, or debris holding it slightly open sets this code, costs nothing to correct, and is a hazard in its own right.
3.Scan every module and record all stored and pending codes with freeze frame data. P2114 alone points at the 'C' sensor or its rest position; P2114 with P2113 points at a shared ground, reference, or a stale learned value.
4.Ask what changed just before the light appeared. A recent throttle body or pedal replacement, battery disconnect, or module reflash makes a stale learned value the likely cause and the relearn the likely fix.
5.Test the battery and charging system. Low voltage and excessive ripple shift sensor reference values and produce rest-position faults on healthy sensors.
6.Remove the intake duct and inspect the throttle bore, the plate edge, and the shaft for carbon. Check that the plate closes fully against its stop and moves freely through its full range with no binding.
7.Do not adjust the minimum-stop screw. It is factory-set on electronic throttle bodies and moving it corrupts the reference the entire strategy depends on.
8.With the key on and engine off, read the 'C' sensor's rest value in live data and compare it against the specification in service data rather than against a guess at what looks normal.
9.Perform a loaded voltage-drop test on the sensor ground. A resistive ground raises the whole signal range and shifts the rest value without breaking anything else.
10.Verify the 5-volt reference at the sensor connector with the key on, measured against a known-good chassis ground.
11.Graph the 'C' signal alongside its partner channel while sweeping the pedal slowly through full travel and releasing it, watching specifically whether the trace returns to the same rest value every time.
12.Compare commanded throttle position against actual throttle position in live data. A persistent gap at rest confirms a mechanical restriction rather than an electrical fault.
13.Inspect the connector for corrosion, moisture, spread or backed-out terminals, and a properly seated locking tab, then wiggle-test the harness with live data displayed.
14.If deposits were present, clean the throttle body and then run the relearn procedure — cleaning without relearning is a common cause of a fresh code immediately afterward.
15.If wiring, reference, and ground all test good and the rest value is still out of specification, run the relearn; if the code returns, replace the throttle body or pedal assembly and relearn again.

Repair cost

$0 – $700

The low end is zero and it is not theoretical — running the relearn procedure, reseating a connector, or clearing an obstruction from under the pedal are genuine no-parts fixes for this specific code and account for a real share of cases. Diagnosis alone typically runs $75-$150. Throttle body cleaning is roughly $80-$200 and is the most common paid fix when the 'C' sensor is on the throttle body. Wiring or connector repair falls around $100-$300 with diagnostic time. A throttle body is roughly $250-$700 installed depending on platform; an accelerator pedal assembly $150-$400 installed. Most platforms require a relearn afterward, so budget for it.

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DIY vs shop

This is an intermediate DIY job. It usually involves diagnostic steps, specialty parts, and some careful work in tight spaces. If you have the tools and a service manual or trustworthy video for your specific vehicle, it is achievable in a weekend. Otherwise, a competent independent shop will be faster.